Galaxy S4 Ballistic Case

youmagine

This includes the CAD files needed to create the plastic portion of a Galaxy S4 Ballistic case. Ballistic cases can be ordered at www.amazon.com/Ballistic-SG1158-A195-Case-Samsung-Galaxy/dp/B00C2HQX8C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=...You'll need this part because it has the rubber portion of the case:http://www.amazon.com/Ballistic-SG1158-A195-Case-Samsung-Galaxy/dp/B00C2HQX8C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=...I recommend choosing any color except blue, as the other three colors come with black rubber that complements any color.If you want an image on your case like mine, find your own image and size it to the dimensions of the case (same width/length ratio 129X63). Position the image so it won't cover any holes in the case. Using a ruler might be easiest, or take a screenshot of the camera case and load it into Photoshop as another image layer. Convert the picture to two-tone black and white. Then open the image with this utility:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:66115Use 0.2mm for both the base and target height. Setting the base to 0 might make it harder to align the image perfectly with the case. Set the target width X to 129mm, and the height will automatically be 62mm.After that, optionally open the STL file in MeshLab. I reduced the faces to 1 million faces (so Cura would run faster) using the "filters" "remeshing..." "quadratic edge collapse decimation." I set quality to 1 as recommended in a Shapeways article about this subject.Now, special instructions: In your slicer (I used Cura), flip the picture upside down, slice .2mm layers, turn off brim or support or raft features. Look at the slices carefully - you should have two layers. The bottom layer should be what you want as the image. The next layer up should be discarded. Use a text editor to discard the second layer.Print this bottom layer using the first color of filament. Again, it's essential to slice both layers and then remove the upper layer only for purposes of alignment so when you print the phone case on top, it will land exactly where you expected. If you know better ways to align, you can set the base height to 0 in Image2STL and then you don't need to hand-edit the G-code.Next, print the phone case on top with a different color filament, of course. You can even do this the next day or whenever. When slicing the phone case, make it print .2mm higher than normal. I did this with a G1 Z0.2 followed by a "G92 Z0" to make the printer think we are now at height 0. Alternatively, you could slice the first layer as .4mm thick or .35mm thick, but I recommend .2mm layers for the rest of the print.Because the printer thought it was printing .2mm off the bed but was actually .4mm off the bed, I had to increase the flow. I used 150% but maybe I should have used 200%. Once the first layer was done, I put the flow back to normal.UPDATE: I added what you'll need to do the UM Robot logo on any phone case or other print. The STL file can be used to print a UM Robot. It's scaled to 60 by 45mm but you can scale it in Cura to any dimensions. Make sure you flip it over by clicking on it in Cura, choosing rotate then rotate by 180 degrees using the green or yellow circles (not the red/Z axis circle). I provided a screenshot of the first layer as one of my images for comparison. Use .2mm and then hand-edit the G-code and completely remove the second layer in any text editor. The G-code is well-commented, so it's simple to edit. Search for "layer." Alternatively, you could have your finger on the power switch and after it finishes the robot and starts the border kill power and push head out of the way and remove any extra border filament. Then you're ready to print anything you want on top.