*~ Fully Printable ~* Butterfly Knife Balisong Design - CyberPunk Arasaka Remix Hardware Included In Print Files

prusaprinters

My lovely Printables Family <3 THE NEWEST ADDITION TO THE EVER GROWING SELF DEFENSE LINE IS FINALLY HERE: https://www.printables.com/model/704603-night-raids-ultimate-karambit-knuckle-duster-fullyGo show some love to a killer set of knuckles, bottle opener, blade, and car window break all in one lightweight metal detector proof design! !! please print with caution it's not a toy like this ballisong trainer !!NEED THE BEST RAZOR SHARP SELF DEFENSE TANTO? https://www.printables.com/model/418227-the-ultimate-tanto-blade-styled-combat-knifeshort- ******* V2 OF THIS KNIFE IS HERE PLEASE CHECK MY PAGE AND TOSS A LIKE AND FOLLOW IF YOU WANT MORE V2 HAS EVEN MORE UPGRADED FEATURES! ***********https://www.printables.com/model/403632-fully-printable-v2-balisong-butterfly-knife-compleTHIS V1 is super awesome though is you're looking for a real sleek functional design. v2 is over the top with latching and blade leveling updates.THIS IS A TRAINER KNIFE NOT A SELF-DEFENSE WEAPON (please see tanto link above for that) AND NOT MEANT TO BE USED AS ONE. THERE ARE PLENTY OF CHEAPER AND MORE EFFECTIVE OPTIONS. (just download it, you know you need another tanto lying around the house)NO SCREWS NEEDED - JUST PRINT AND HAVE FUN :) *see notice below you can use screws if you'd like to for real smooth rotational axis.*________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Big thanks to everyone as always for keeping this on the trending page :)AND PLEASE READ THE FULL PAGE! Balisong Model now comes fully print ready - for both 0.15mm and 0.20mm applications (always print on quality if using Prusa Printers for either option)Remixed model is angled for multicolored prints easier, smoothed out blade and tip, reduced stress points on the perimeter to allow for less warping if printing outside the enclosure and more!I'll put it here for anyone who doesn't like reading the bottoms of pages:THE COUNTERWEIGHTS ARE PURPOSELY LEFT OUT OF THE DESIGN ABOVE BUT STILL ON THE PLATE IN THE OFF CHANCE SOMEONE WOULD LIKE TO USE THEM INSTEAD OF BRASS/COPPER/STEEL RODS - HOWEVER - SINCE PLA OFFERS ALMOST NO WEIGHT TO IT THEY ARE PURPOSELY NOT ADHERED TO THE INNER HANDLE CHAMBER. IN ORDER TO USE THEY MUST BE ADDED INTO THE HANDLE AND THE EDGE OF THE HANDLE WILL PREVENT THEM FROM COMING OUT - OTHERWISE IT'LL PREVENT THEM FROM GOING IN. (for prints on Prusa printers just right click on the handle and select add part and then add in the counter balance .stl and align the flat part that is on the base directly onto the slanted face inside the handle - if done properly the counterweight will print flush into the handles rectangular cutout)Anyone not using Prusa's Slicer or If you need help understanding meshing and how to fully add parts this will be a good starting point: SCALE THEM TO BE A PERFECT FIT IF USING - STANDARD SIZING IS FINE FOR THIS THOUGH. (15% infill)To address any structural problems you may have with any piece of the knife please refer to this as a starting point and adjust it as you see fit for your use and style. This method uses a layer height addition to adjust the infill to 100% at the points where the hardware gets inserted to avoid breaks from people printing the full set at one uniform infill level. If you have any questions please ask me and I will help.  Print Instructions:Keep bed temps:@ 62 degrees (65 deg for first 7min of gcode file / .3mf for perfect bed adhesion) (unless using another filament besides pla/pla+)Keep hot end temps: @ 208-213 for PLA+ esun/sunlu @ 223-227 for Prusament PLA@217-220 for generic PLA depending on silky etc. - if you notice stringing you're too hot, better to go a little colder on this build and get fine lines rather than structural stability since the knife will not be stabbing anything or anyone (hopefully) Supports:YES!  Keep bed supports on only or simply paint on your own enforcers and change parameters so that supports are enabled for enforcers only. I personally use organic support material for underneath. Infill:15% infill works fine and will be more than printable if seeking a quick lightweight option. I prefer 90-100% for the added weight of handles.  To match photos copper /brass / steel rods can be added into the base of handles and blade to add some extra rotational weight for a much more realistic feel, cheers to wake for that one in the following specs:Both sides of handles will accept:(1x) counterweight balance (printable - and to be placed inside PRIOR TO PRINT) or (1x) 6x20mm Brass / Steel / Copper Rod IN PLACE OF THIS YOU CAN ALSO USE THE 3x20mm RODS THAT COME SPARE WITH ANY PRUSA KIT.Blade will accept:(1x) 4x32mm Brass / Steel / Copper Rod. Rods and counterbalance weights can be easily purchased on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/Sutemribor-Assortment-Making-Handle-Length/dp/B0CHF754NC/ref=sr_1_11?c=ts&keywords=Brass%2BRods&s=industrial&sr=1-11&ts_id=11260309011&th=1https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Stainless-Cylindrical-Support-Elements/dp/B07Z1NQFRT/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=6x20mm%2Brod%2Binsert&s=industrial&sr=1-5&th=1Please note I am not an affiliate nor a customer of either seller listed, please source from wherever your heart desires, I don't make a cent off anyone clicking above or using that seller's products nor can I attest to their quality!** Side Note: Screws CAN be used in place of the pins if you prefer - also for anyone having any rotational issues - the hole space has to be just tight enough for the pin to stick but free enough so the blade can rotate around it, with prints in in PLA this won't matter as much but warping / shrinking (looking at you ASA users) will cause pins to be off, if they feel too tight they probably are, something as small as a gust of cold wind would be all it takes to offset these pins when printing (luckily they only take a min or two to print out spares).screws should be applied in the following manner if not using printed hardware.*BE AWARE WITH ORGANIC SUPPORTS UNDERNEATH* UNLESS DRAWN CUSTOM WILL ALWAYS LEAVE A LOWER QUALITY PRINT NEAR WHATEVER THEY ARE MEANT TO HOLD UP! IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A LOOK AS CLEAN -  IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR FINER BLADE QUALITY AND SMOOTHNESS CONSIDER ADDING IN IRON POINTS FOR THE TOP 15 LAYERS OF THE BLADE (FROM THE BLADES CENTER TO TOP OF ARC) FOR A CRISP SPLIT DOWN THE MIDDLE FOR AESTHETICS.