FTS Long Range Tripod Optic - Adjustable

thingiverse

This is an adapter for building a tripod table that can mount two optics on a single tripod. I use it to attach my spotting scope on one side and this adjustable adapter on the opposite side to direct a laser rangefinder for precise ranging. In addition to the files provided, you will also need: O-Rings: -006 size 2-4 of them Heat Set Inserts: 94180A331 x5 M3 x 40mm Hex Head Cap Screw: x1 M3 Coupling nut: x1 M6 Hex Head Cap Screw (About 20mm in length is fine): x1 M6 Jam Nut: X1 Red (permanent) Loctite Press Fit Drill Bushing with Head: 1/8" ID, 1/4" OD. Four holes are to be drilled; you can get as few as one and just switch the bushing into different holes. Arca Swill Clamp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYEO70Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I purchase most of my parts from McMaster-Carr (hence their part number on the inserts), but you can buy them wherever. I include the part number for the inserts because I've sized the holes to work with this insert, and with the shrink behavior of my current batch of ColorFabb XT. I've noticed that holes tend to shrink about 0.1mm in diameter. Edit: I've made a small modification to use this with Smallrig cheese plates. The base plate Rev C and plate jig for smallrig are the only modified files needed. These have hole spacing to match the 9mm center-to-center spacing of Smallrig plates like this: https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Multi-purpose-Switching-Dovetail-Camera/dp/B019C2ZM8Q/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1T4MK06SO61MN&keywords=smallrig+cheese+plate&qid=1559097910&s=gateway&sprefix=smallrig+cheese%2Caps%2C245&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1 Notes: Holes in base part 1 and base part 2 are meant for the M3 heat set inserts noted above. There are two jigs in the package: Mount base plate jig is what I used to drill holes in a basic plate of aluminum. This lets me attach the "Base part 1" to the aluminum plate. RRS Plate Jig is meant to firmly go onto the amazon clamp listed above so you can drill holes that are perfectly aligned with the holes on "Base part 2". I recommend countersinking the holes, and you can see them in the first image. O-Rings fit on the inside of the nut file STL's meaning they fit between the nut print and the base part 1. These orings create some tension so your left-right adjustments don't drift. The M3 coupling nut fits inside of the base part 2. This is sized for a coupling nut with a 9mm hex size. Secure it with vibration-resistant epoxy or glue. The M3 hex screw fits into one of the nuts, and an M3 heat set insert into the other. Use red Loctite on the insert so that it doesn't unscrew itself when you make adjustment. The M6 hex head screw fits into the base part 1 from the bottom. It will be too tall. You can either make a relief cut on whatever base you're attaching the plate to, or grind down the hex. I chose the latter. M6 jam nut fits into the "Mount Nut". It's essential that you use a jam nut; a regular hex nut won't fit. On the third picture, you can see that I'm just using button head screws from the bottom to secure the bottom part onto the aluminum plate. This is sort of a rough draft, but I don't have much time to make the improvements I want so I'm putting up what I have so far.