Front Wheel Drive M-chassis RC Car

cults3d

This is a basic M-chassis sized RC onroad car. It does not use or need oil dampers to drive well and will perform equal to other M-chassis cars. Prototype chassis video after 2:30: https://youtu.be/Ur0n6PreKdg The car is shown after 1:30 in this video: https://youtu.be/cinpnbhEQtY FS racing part number 511687 steel gear dif can be used with the car by replacing the original bevel ring gear with part Steeldiff02-Geared.STL and adding the adapter rings inside the two 12x18x4mm ball bearings as shown in the photo of the FS Racing bag. This diff needs longer CVD axles than the printed one. The 3D printed diff is plenty strong enough though and shouldn't pose a problem in this car. Yokomo Y2-500 ball diff (For YD-2 car) can be used instead of the printed one. Print Balldiffadapter02-Geared and use the included gear to build the ball diff accordign to the Yokomo instructions. Remove the support caps from the holes in the gear with drills or a knife first off course. Add the spacer cups to the sides of the diff after assembly like the photo I attached shows to put the bearings at the right position to mount in the car. The body post locations fit standard pre cut Tamiya M-chassis bodies. To adjust the rear body mount it can be moved back and forth and also turned around 180° as needed. The front posts are located the same place no matter the wheelbase. The Tamiya Alfa Romeo Mito is a direct fit with the 237 mm wheelbase rear arms: https://rcecho.com/tamiya-rc-car-body-110-scale-alfa-romeo-mito-body-part-yellow-finished-84276/ Other bodies may not fit because of the front motor or bumper, so take care when buying to ensure there is room in front. The curved front bumper can be heat formed if needed, or the larger flat bumper can be used underneath instead. If clear dimensions are provided I can design a new bumper if needed, but feel free to try to design your own as well, or just strap foam to the front of the motor guard. The bumper is just held on by two screws. Note that the same chassis is used for a buggy and touring car with shocks, so there might be different components visible in some instructional photos that are not relevant to this chassis. I suggest the following 48dp gear ratio range to keep it fair against Tamiya M-chassis cars, with standard 540 motors: 81T spur 34T pinion for best acceleration and 42T pinion for highest top speed. I suggest the following 32dp (0,8 mod) gear ratio range to keep it fair against Tamiya M-chassis cars, with standard 540 motors: 54T spur 22T pinion for best acceleration and 28T pinion for highest top speed. 3D printable 32dp gears are included and are printable with 0,4 mm nozzles. 22, 25 and 28 teeth pinion gives the same range as Tamiyas M05 cars. My experience is that this car outperforms M-05 cars with the same motor and gear limitations. Basic setup: I recommend softer tires in the rear than in the front for optimal handling. Hard front and soft rear Shimizu Treaded tires are easy to drive with. Medium fronts give more grip and more potential for experienced drivers. Front springs: 0,8x7x10mm Rear springs 237 mm wheelbase: 0,8x7x10mm Rear springs 225 mm swheelbase: 0,7x7x10 mm Rear Springs 210 mm wheelbase: 0,6x7x10 mm Rear droop screw exposure: 8mm Front droop screw distance from chassis to top of head: 16 mm Front toe: Parallel or slightly toe out Front camber: Slight negative camber Rear toe arms: 3,5° If the car oversteers to much try adjusting the front camber to slight positive camber instead, or changing to hard tires in the front. For the belt drive version you need 1x 5-6 mm wide 48 tooth (144mm long) 3mm HTD belt. Buy the 10 mmx144mm version and slice to make two belts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HTD-3M-Timing-Belt-87mm-495mm-Closed-Powerdrive-Belt-width-10mm-15mm-Rubber-Belt/401947096419?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338226872&toolid=11800&mkevt=1