Frankenstein Light Switch Plate

thingiverse

Igor, throw the switch!" "Yes, master." Instructions Update: It's coming up on Halloween so I figured it's high time I add versions without the built-in supports that have been giving some printers fits. Use the "xxx_nosupport.stl" switchplate files and turn on the supports option in your slicer. Update: I've added a new 3-switch version for Decora paddle-type switches, it uses the same paddlenubbin used for the 1-switch version and the same Nx blade used for the multi-switch standard-type switch plate. Update: Just added a single-switch version for Decora paddle-type switches available on Leviton. You'll need the paddle_switchplate, paddlenubbin, and madsci_blade. I hid the modern-looking paddle entirely underneath the switchplate to get it to fit. Update: You'll find 2 and 3 switch versions added now! The same nubbin part (one per switch) is used for all versions but the standard blade part is only used on the 1-switch plate, whereas the Nx blade (one per switch) is used for the 2x and 3x plates. Update: A new version of the nubbin has been added that prints on its side without support ribs. Use this one if your printer can handle bridges fairly well. Printed in PLA with 0.2mm layers, three perimeter shells, and 20% infill, I printed a plate part slightly hotter to ensure good layer adhesion. Rotate the plate by plus or minus forty-five degrees before slicing (or simply set the infill angle to zero or ninety degrees) for either the refined or rough-sawn look, you'll have to see it for yourself in your slicer output. The switch plate and nubbin come out print-ready without support but the switch plate's built-in ribs break away by hand. If trouble comes up with those printed built-in supports try a 1-layer-thick raft on next print.