FPV Tiny Tank Pro

thingiverse

Here's my take on the FPV Tiny Tank/Trak: I'm adding as many features to my design as possible, including a tilting camera mount and a modular setup that utilizes space between tracks for more possibilities while maintaining a low profile. The wheels and tracks are a modified version of JaniKabalin's brilliant Tiny FPV Tank https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3435968 - thanks to Jani for allowing me to use their original design and advice along the way. Everything is printed in PLA except for the tracks, camera brace, and wheel covers which are printed in TPU (Flexible Filament). The TPU for the tracks adds slightly more grip compared to PLA. -Construction Tips- The chassis and mid plate attach via built-in clips (be careful not to bend the clips too much), while the canopy and mid plate attach via magnets. For best results, print the mid plate and canopy in the same orientation as they would be in real life (a lot of support material and cleanup is required but it all helps with the overall build). The tracks require a ~15mm piece of wire between each link. The wire is also used as a servo linkage for the camera tilt mechanism. The servo wheels fit directly onto the servos. Even though there's space for magnets on the underside of the mid plate, they're not necessary. UPDATE 1: A modified version of the chassis has been created to fit popular SG90 servos. Depending on the exact model servo, you may have to modify the servo casing so the wires protrude through the bottom of the case instead of the side. -Quantities to print- 1 of everything except: * Track link x 40 (20 per side) * Bearing wheel x 2 * Servo Wheel x 2 * Wheel Cover x 4 -Electronics Used- Battery: 400mAh 2s Lipo Receiver: FrSky RX4R Drive Servos: (2) EMAX ES08MDII Camera Servo: EMAX ES9251II Camera: Runcam Eagle Micro VTX: Runcam TX200U -Hardware Used- Bearings: (2) 3x8x4 taken from an old 2206 Brushless Motor Bolts: (2) M3x12mm Magnets: 3x1mm Disc/Rod Magnets Track wire: 1mm spring steel wire (cut paperclips can also be used) -Modularity- The chassis has space for 4 magnets and clips, allowing for new 'modules' to be made. The mid plate also has space for 4 magnets, maybe a different canopy design, smaller canopy for non-tilt/smaller camera, micro battle robot modules? Endless possibilities... -Mixing- The mixing is all done on the Transmitter. I'd recommend an OpenTX transmitter. I'll include a few screens that may help you configure your mixer but it may differ from your ideal setup due to various factors. (I only have the 'Switch' added within the mixer so I can have what's essentially a fake arm switch. This is not necessary.)