FP-68D Night Snake Compact dual cage FTW flywheel pistol foam blaster

cults3d

Have you ever wanted to have a compact blaster capable of shooting at speeds of 150 FPS? Well, here's your chance. This build should be relatively simple, but you might find the catch assembly a bit tricky. I encourage you to experiment with springs and print settings if you know what you're doing to create a blaster that meets your needs. You can grab the Snakethanhas here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3890229 Feedback is welcome, and though I might not be able to respond to everyone, I read everything. If you run into issues, I'll do my best to help. The complete blaster is available here: https://blogderrikksun.com/product/grass-snake/ Note that selling the blaster without permission is illegal. If you're a seller interested in selling and manufacturing Grass Snakes, please contact me directly. Tips are highly appreciated and would help me a lot on future Nerf projects. Version history: 1.0 Initial release Hardware list: -Standard Omron-sized microswitch; -Motors of your choice. Honeybadgers seem to offer the best performance, but from what I hear Fangs are a bit more reliable; -FTW, Nightowl or Cabanossi flywheels (I've yet to test with the latter); -Wiring and a battery plug of your choice; -Some M2.5x10 screws or their imperial equivalent. Preferably countersunk. You might need to shorten the one that fixes the trigger to the trigger link; -12 Motor screws. The extra screws are for grip panels. -A couple of approximately 5mm long and no more than 5mm in diameter compression springs for each catch. I've found that pen springs work well. You might want to have a somewhat looser spring for the Katana catch because of how it's set up. I encourage you to experiment with this, as both harder and softer springs will have their own advantages; -An extension spring or two. I use one or two 0.4x4mm springs for the trigger. There shouldn't be much resistance in the return stroke of the trigger, but it never hurts to have that extra bit of force. Again, a relatively average strength setup will suffice, but you can experiment here as well. As I said, you can use two extension springs to double the force. Print settings: Parts are NOT oriented for printing Best results with Cura slicer, otherwise I can't guarantee good tolerances. Layer height: 0.24 or lower Perimeters: 3 or more (no reason for more than 5) Supports: Preferably use tree supports and if not, don't forget to place the supports everywhere, not only directly above build plate Print speed: 60mm/s works best, but that will depend on your setup as well. Print duration on minimal settings and 100 mm/s: about 20 hours in total 5 or more grip panels with motor screws. Make sure they don't grind on the magazine, otherwise you'll need to trim them a little. Now it's time to assemble: 1. Assemble the cage. Insert and screw in the motors. Use 3-4mm long motor screws. Add the flywheels and make sure they're aligned nicely and take into account motor shaft looseness when doing it. 2. Wire up the cage with the switch (inverted). You can do that while everything is in the frame or outside of it. Make sure you cut the wires to appropriate lengths. Don't forget the battery plug. Keep in mind that the horizontal slot on the right is meant to hold it inside to save space. 3. Add the cover and secure it with screws. You can try to test fire at this point. 4. Pick up the slide (frame top) and insert the iron sights into the dove tail slot. 5. To close off the blaster with the battery, put on the slide (frame top), slot in the tip, secure it with a pin, and snap on the detent in the back. 6. Don't forget to screw on the grip panels with motor screws. Make sure they don't grind on the magazine, otherwise you'll need to trim them a little. Enjoy your new blaster!