Fountek Speaker Box FR88EX

thingiverse

Included in this zip are 2 files, the main body and a beauty baffle. I haven't included feet because mine are just resin poured into an ice cube tray, nor have I included the little tubes to hold the binding posts, as you will need different sizes depending on what posts you use, so make a tube 7.4mm long with whatever width you need for your binding posts and 2.4mm walls. I also haven't included the speaker grille because it is highly dependent on the exact bolts used, and I'm not 100% happy with it yet. If you'd like to give these a try, follow the instructions below! Materials: * 1 KG filament * 1 Litre Resin * Filler (sharp sand, fully dried) * 4 Binding posts * 2 x Fountek FR88EX * 8 x m3 bolts 1. Print Settings Speaker hole down for the body; baffle prints flat. Use PLA because it has the least shrinkage. You want your first layer to be a little squished and very secure, with a flat, smooth finish not at all ridged. You'll need around 800g for all the prints needed. 0.2 layer height, including the first layer, 2 walls, 100% infill; this is all crucial (due to the way I modeled the roof to ensure as few failures as possible). You may want to turn off any coasting or wiping because a leaky print is much worse than a seam. It's a 350g print, with walls all 1.6mm thick, which is perfect for an 0.8mm nozzle if you have the gear; 0.6 and 0.4 nozzles should still work fine, not that I've tried. The roof is a massive test of your printers' bridging ability; if you have any doubts do a test print of the top few cm first; nothing worse than coming back to a 2-day print to see it failed spectacularly in the last hour. 2. Resin Okay, so you should have your shells now; now you want to fill the cavity walls with resin. You'll need around 1 Litre (I used 800ml in mine). 1. Plug any holes with blutak or tape because you may see a little hole in a corner, or something, just tape/blutak over it to seal it before adding resin; glue on the tubes you made to the back. 2. Choose your resin and filler; I like polyurethane resin (Polycraft FC7450 is cheap, nice to work with, and sets quickly) and sand is a very cheap way to bulk it out; I go for equal weight of filler and resin; you can go up to double with sand, but it starts getting sludgy and hard to pour. Your filler MUST BE BONE DRY because I just chuck it in a baking tray and put it in an 80c oven for a few hours, stirring every 45 minutes or so. 3. Pour your resin and filler into the cavity walls in layers; I go for 100g of resin at a time if you use too much the exothermic reaction may get super warm and start warping your print. 4. Glue the baffle on because be careful that you get the positioning spot on there's only about 0.5mm of play around the driver; it won't be a seam-free join due to the little bit of squish on the base layers. 5. All that's left now is feet and finishing, and that's up to you!