Folgertech FT-6 EZ bed leveling system

thingiverse

This project is complete, and it's running smoothly on my printer without needing any further adjustments. I designed this system for easy bed leveling on the massive FT-6 bed, ditching the tiny knurled aluminum knobs and short springs in favor of M4 hardware, 20mm springs, and large, labeled knobs. After struggling with leveling for the first time, I realized there wasn't enough spring travel to compensate for the 2mm warpage in my under-bed, so I had to use washers under the rear springs. The tiny knobs are awful for making adjustments, especially with eight of them adding to the frustration. There had to be a better way, and now there is! This setup will require buying outside components, but it's worth it, especially for making small adjustments on the fly, which was impossible with the OE equipment. The attached .STL file includes the bracket that brings all the other parts together. However, you'll still need: 2x Ender 3 spring/knob upgrade kits https://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-Creality-Upgraded-Leveling-Nut-4pcs-Hot-Bed-Spring-For-Ender-3-5-CR-10/222919209999?epid=9017872360&hash=item33e705340f:g:MiEAAOSwIdVcQVNW 1x Set of 10 (you only need eight) 5mm (bore) x 10mm (outer diameter) x 4mm (height) ball thrust bearings https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Axial-Ball-Thrust-Bearing-F5-10M-5mm-x-10mm-x-4mm-5-x-10-x-4-mm/290699007785?epid=1631440805&hash=item43af02d729:g:eTUAAOxyjxlTM8j4 1x set of 10 (you only need eight) M4x0.7 x 75mm flat heat stainless steel machine screws https://www.ebay.com/itm/M4-304-Stainless-Steel-Phillips-FLAT-HEAD-Machine-Screw-DIN-965-Bolts-ISO-7046/132381413851?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=431716016849&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 1x set of 20 (you only need 16) M3x0.5 x 10mm stainless steel machine screws https://www.ebay.com/itm/M3x0-5-3mm-316-Stainless-Steel-A4-Button-Head-Socket-Cap-Screws-ISO-7380-A4/132639024002?hash=item1ee1e6e382:m:mXxBKWKOCmRl3aKytWRcacQ At least 320mm of 6mm ID, 8mm OD tubing I used carbon fiber: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-8MM-OD-Tube-X-50-Foot-Carbon-Fiber-Reinforced-Polymer-TF40-5C-HL/293509555341?epid=1011134546&hash=item43bf6f23c9:g:qRMAAOSwW5dX~Q You'll have to drill the holes in the bed and under-bed larger for M4 hardware, countersink the machine screw heads like they originally came but with larger hardware. You can pick up a countersinking bit at any hardware store. Insert the tube into one of the brackets over and over again and trim the excess with a Dremel or mark and cut with a hack saw. Stick the long M4 bolts into the bed and under-bed with the new springs between the two, then slide on the printed brackets with your tube inside. Slide the thrust bearings onto the bolts, and screw on your knobs. The knob will set the upper thrust bearing shell onto the bracket. At this point, you can align the brackets and drill with a 3/32" bit into the ACM and thread on the retaining screws. If the ACMs is too close or too far away, it can be moved. You'll have to loosen the M3 hardware holding the under-bed lower braces to the under-bed to get it right. You'll lose roughly 20mm of Z travel by doing this mod. If you're running my Y gantry mounts, they were designed to lift Z with this modification in mind and you can reclaim some of that travel. It's a good idea to test out your actual build volume and update your firmware and the printer profiles in Octoprint and your slicer to be on the safe side.