Folding Nintendo Switch Table-Top charging stand v3

thingiverse

Update v3 (29.03.2017) Add small nubs to keep the small hinge expanded and prevent it from collapsing by its own before inserting the Nintendo Switch. It's a snap fit. Ensure you adapt the tolerances for your filament to get the right amount of grip in the hinges. The part is designed with a 0.3mm gap between the moving parts. I printed the part without any issues on my Ultimaker 2+ with Innofil SILVER METALLIC PLA and it came out beautifully. Print File: switch-stand-collapsed-v3.stl Initial Release v2 Print it in one go. No screws, no glue needed. Print File: switch-stand-collapsed-v2.stl - the other file (switch-stand-expanded-v2.stl) is just to show how it should look like in the expanded form. Tired of not being able to recharge the Switch in table-top mode? Use this portable and foldable stand for the Nintendo Switch, which fits in every pocket and can be easily unfolded. The Nintendo Switch can be charged while playing. It has a robust stand for its small footprint and only 18 grams of weight. The switch is securely held using its two bottom holes sliding over the supplied nubs. Size collapsed: 99mm x 68mm x 8mm You are not allowed to use this thing for commercial purposes. When you would like to sell prints, please contact me in advance so we can work out a solution. Please make sure to reference to the source properly, when you are using this thing. Thank you. Print Settings Printer Brand: Ultimaker Printer: Ultimaker 2 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 150 microns Infill: 15% Notes: PLA works best, because of no brim. For ABS, PC or HIPS make sure to have a brim with at least 10 perimeters around the object with zero distance (1 layer thickness) because of the small footprint and the longish narrow parts which tend to shrink unevenly during the print. I use a durable PEI coated build plate to print on. Some Gluestick or 3DLac will also help keeping the print stuck in place. Post-Printing Step 1: In case you used a brim, make sure to cut through the brim-surface to free the moveable parts. To make it easier, check the top side (the side having the pins) and go along the boundaries with a cutter or a scalpel. Step 2: Carefully break the hinges free. Start from the outermost hinge and work yourself to the center. Pull at the marked positions (1) upwards and push down the part with the small pillars next to it to loosen the first hinge. After that, continue with the second hinge (2) in the marked direction.