Flsun CoreXY Easy

thingiverse

This set of parts allows you to easily convert your Flsun Cube printer into CoreXY. The advantages of this are: - Lighter moving parts: higher accelerations and print speeds - Allows printing of full bed area or larger (if you get a larger bed) - Increase Z print height by about 50mm (not actually CoreXY related) When I say "easily", I mean: - Don't need to disassemble the frame - Don't need to buy a lot of new parts (some are needed, though) The parts used are adaptations from Tech2C's Hypercube printer. Some are straight from that project, some are remixes from Arturslab, some are remixes from both of those, and some are completely custom. Check out Tech2C and Arturslab here on Thingiverse. You will need to buy: - 4M of GT2 6mm wide timing belt (only needed if you cut the provided one already) - (6) toothed GT2 idler pulleys, 3mm bore - (2) smooth GT2 idler pulleys, 3mm bore - (2) toothed GT2 motor pulleys, 5mm bore (optional, see below) - 50mm blower fan (optional, see Hypercube project for link) - misc screws and nuts For the pulleys, you can use 16T or 20T pulleys. The pulleys that are included on the motors are 16T pulleys, so 16T idlers will match those. However, it's really better to have 20T pulleys all around, but this means buying 2 more pulleys. The pictures show 16T pulleys, but I've ordered 20T pulleys to replace them. The XY Joiner is the only part for which you'll need to choose the version according to the pulley size you use. Note that for the 16T version, a bit of filing may be needed, since it was originally designed to use a couple of bearings instead of a real pulley. The 20T version is a remix of Elstak's version. For the hardware, I was able to use a lot of the extras that came with the printer, but I also had to use some from my own supply. I didn't keep track of it all, though, but as you examine the parts, you'll see what you need (m3 hardware to hold things together, m4 hardware to hold parts to the frame). One suggestion for assembling the printer frame if you haven't done so already: Use T-nuts instead of the square nuts provided. Just buy a bag of 100 M4 T-nuts (also called hammer nuts). I used one of the motherboard fans as a parts cooling fan. This is just temporary, since I intend to purchase the same 50mm blower fan that the Hypercube uses (see that page for a link). The E3d mount is intended for a v6, so I had to grind it a bit to fit the stock v5. The stock hot-end also requires the stretched fan duct instead of the regular one. The modification to increase the Z height is optional. I printed the 4 blocks to extend the bed mount below the Z carriages. I also turned the L extrusions upside-down for additional height increase. I used washers under the screws that go against the acrylic parts to prevent any cracking that might result from over-tightening. One more thing: You'll remove the bearing rod-holders which were used as angle brackets. You'll want to replace them with regular angle brackets. I used some extras that I had laying around. If you don't have extras, then you can use the ones that were originally used as feet for the printer. You can print some regular feet to replace them. Assembly note: The idler pulley holders are set as high as possible (against the angle brackets). The Y rods are then aligned with the center of the pulley holders. The X motor bracket goes as high as possible, using the special rod bracket. The Y motor bracket height is less critical. The main thing is that the pulleys on each need to line up with their respective idler pulleys. This is easiest to check after installing the belts. Just adjust things until the belts are perfectly level. Also: I noticed that the X carriage would bind if I tightened the slider clamps too much. This is probably because the two LM8UU sliders get pushed out of line a bit. A solution would be to use single longer sliders (LM8UUL) instead of the two shorter ones. For now, I just didn't tighten the clamps too much. I didn't have this problem with the Y carriages. I added the changes I made to the configuration files for Marlin bugfix-2.0.x. These are still a work in progress, since I haven't gotten UBL working yet. However, they will get you printing.