Flexion bracket for Lulzbot Mini

thingiverse

ATTENTION: To make this work, you must carefully read these notes. All holes were deliberately designed to accommodate machine screws that self-tap and securely hold directly in the plastic. If this doesn't function for you, try increasing your wall thickness. Using the standard toolhead and the stock HIPS profile, the wall thickness causes these holes to print slightly smaller than the model dimensions. I've successfully printed mine in HIPS, and it has been working flawlessly. You will need the motor, cooling fan, blower fan, limit switches, wire harness, and other essential electrical components from a lulzbot toolhead. Additionally, you'll require a very long cable tie to securely hold the motor in place. You'll also need two short 2mm machine screws for the cooling fan and slightly longer machine screws than stock for the hotend block (I explain this further later). In my case, I disassembled my flexystruder since it had reached its final days and was replacing it with the Flexion extruder. You will also need electrical insulation between the hotend and the stepper motor because the auto-leveling sensor wire must connect to the hotend but cannot be connected to the motor housing. Make sure you thoroughly test using a multimeter that you have complete electrical insulation between the aluminum hotend base and the motor housing. If you don't have full insulation, the leveling process will behave erratically, often times not being able to probe correctly. How to Add the Electrical Insulation: Add nylon washers to both ends of the machine screws that fasten the hotend block to the motor housing. You'll need slightly longer screws than what comes with the Flexion extruder. I'll update this description with the screw lengths later. Also, drill out the holes in the hotend block so you have some space around the machine screw. Wrap the entire length of each screw liberally with teflon tape (this is an excellent electrical insulator), except for the very tip. You need just enough thread that it goes into the motor housing screw holes without issue. Assemble these longer screws with the teflon and the 4 nylon washers, and you should be ready. Optionally, you can wrap the hotend block in a thick layer of teflon tape to ensure you don't have contact anywhere else. If you need to modify the design, it's freely available as a public OnShape document: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/99bd7cf42021b3071d9ed3c2/w/5a8f6b81c37fc2791429a1c4/e/f5b219dc00aec25b5e49f3a0