Flexi Line new comfort - LED Lamp Clamp/Holder

thingiverse

The original LED for the flexi line was not bright enough, so a different LED lamp was needed. See Amazon link. However, there was no longer a free hand. Therefore, the idea with the LED clamp. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BE9GNXS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The clip is pulled centrally over the two flat sides. (Diameter between both surfaces 24.5mm and width 17mm) I admit that the flexi line has gained weight. Prints the parts in a lying position. The two parts only have to be screwed together with an M4 screw and hex nut. (hex nut 8mm diameter and 3mm thick) Shorten the screw to a thread length of 13-14 mm. If the screw head is thicker than 3mm, you will scratch the paint of the lamp. Fixes the plate with self-adhesive Velcro or TESA Power Strip. EDIT: Unfortunately for me it didn't work with TESA. Because the side surface is not flat. But I have the following suggestion: If you have printed with PLA, hold the plate under boiled water, if it becomes deformable, press the plate to the side of the FLEXI and adjust the shape. (exert pressure in the middle and with the other hand on the outer edge). For me it took a few repetitions. Unfortunately I ran out of TESA Strips now it sticks on double-sided tape. V2 - unfortunately holds the version previously not good enough. Now I have added loops at different positions. You can thread cable ties through this. The second plate is for the other side of the line, as most cable ties are not long enough, it shortens you so that the length required. You don't need to cover all of the eyelets. Two cable ties are actually sufficient, which you tighten very firmly and precisely in the middle through two opposite eyelets. If that's not enough, you can use up to six eyelets. (Maybe recommended if your prints with PLA?) I also changed something on the bracket. This has a pin protruding from the surface it lies on, which engages in one of the seven recesses in the plate. As a result, the LED lamp no longer rotates endlessly on its own axis. Prefer to print the main plate with PETG and with more than five wall lines. So you don't break the bars on the eyelets or the hole for the screw out.