Flashforge all-metal hotend

thingiverse

I'm not sure this is something you can post, but I figured I'd give it a shot anyway since it's somewhat relevant and I've got a 3D drawing of the part to show. This design came from combining some elements of E3Dv6's heat break - an ultra-thin heat transition zone with 0.4mm walls - and Jetguy's brass nut trick, which helps conduct heat from just above the transition zone to the aluminium cooling bar. The Flashforge Creators are Chinese clones of the Makerbot Replicator 1 Dual but with an incompatible aluminum cooling bar. This means you can't use a standard M6 threaded heat break as most Reprap hotends do. Also, the stock heat break has a Teflon liner which excludes printing with any high-temperature materials like Nylon. Technically, you shouldn't be printing ABS either, but that's borderline. Here's a drawing of the replacement heat break I machined out of a stainless steel half-threaded screw. Instructions: You'll need the following items: A M6 stainless steel screw (or 6mm stainless steel cylinder if you want to do your own threading) with at least 14mm smooth shank and 13mm thread. It's also recommended to saw off the head and smooth both sides for a nice perpendicular edge. You'll also need an M6 brass nut. Follow these steps: Remove the screwhead, and make sure to get both ends looking sharp by smoothing them out completely. Next, use a drill bit that is 2mm in diameter and drill straight through the middle of the remaining smooth shank until it reaches the opposite side. Then, using an extra fine saw or a sharp edge of another half-threaded screw - take some care to carefully reduce the diameter by tapering outwards. Try for an M6-sized transition at about 2-4 mm thick - ideally a smooth one to allow airflow and not hinder cooling too much. After this - thin down one particular part of the existing threads (in a length that's exactly about two centimeters) using your hand drill until you can slip an M5 sized piece through with some effort applied. As for preparation, just use countersinking (a technique to recess a cylindrical depression so screws will sit flush or below level - rather than standing proud. If desired - polish out any burrs on this bore. Once you've done all of that screw the brass nut as far up onto it that you can (and no farther), and turn back the opposite direction slightly after you get a decent snug. To attach, mount your Reprap 3D hotend in its holder - while still making sure it’s fully aligned properly on your metal cooling rod assembly system. You may be able to apply just enough pressure against each end so the parts will stay where they need to for printing, thus increasing efficiency greatly. With your machine running now try to make a print - you can decide at any point along this course whether to implement oiling or cleaning for bore quality (or other lubricants) since sometimes there are slight variances that cause issues like reduced friction due mainly friction against surface area when cooling bars interact directly together.