
![[Fixed] Dual 26650 vape with linear magnetic switch (print in place)](https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/a0/5d/65/fd/63/2f0570560fe8c348a4fb39fcece709ec_display_large.jpg)
[Fixed] Dual 26650 vape with linear magnetic switch (print in place)
thingiverse
###Disclaimer### This page and the files contained herein are for educational purposes only. We do not assume any responsibilities for malfunctions or possible injuries resulting from the use of this information. Basic electronics knowledge and common sense apply. ###Updates### * Remixed broken STL to load correctly * Flipped cover so finish matches on both sides of box * Added improved momentary switch (not attached) * Moved atomizer post from center to end * Created a slim version v2 * Revised lid for slim version for tighter fit * Added v2 print in place switch ###Assembly### The print in place switch works against the repulsive force of 2 neodymium magnets or a small compression spring. I used these magnets which worked great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ6EJE2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 After cleaning off the switch with a hobby knife, place a dot of superglue on a magnet and using a screwdriver or tweezers carefully press it firmly into the socket inside the switch assembly blowing gently until you can safely remove the screwdriver. Once after a couple of minutes once the glue has fully set, test with a second magnet to find the repulsive side and mark it with a black marker. Now place a dot of superglue on the other side of the magnet and firmly press it into the opposing side. This is the tricky part; the magnet will want to flip over or move away as you insert it. You may want to use 2 tools: one to hold the magnet down and another to adjust it into position. After you have sanded and finished the box and button, you can paint or resin coat. I used an epoxy resin product called XTC-3D combined with a little black acrylic paint: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFXK4JY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Once the pieces are finished, you should attach your linear switch. The button is long enough you can adjust the position to your liking. Some people may want a button that sticks out further. I like the button to stick out just enough that when it's fully pressed, the button is flush with the case. Once you figure out the positioning, attach the switch with a generous amount of superglue. Once this has dried, you can press the button fully to see where the backstop will need to be attached, making sure to leave enough extra space for your conductive contacts / momentary switch (if you are building a MOSFET switch). You will need to figure out battery connections. Either metal clips or springs should work as long as they have a large surface area. Someone suggested using sanded pennies. I also recommend using the largest gauge solid copper wire you can fit into the box. You should figure out your connections and wires and do all of the soldering first. Regardless of whether you are making the series or parallel build, always make sure you have wired correctly. Once everything has been connected, then fit everything into your box with hot glue. PRO TIP: If you use hotglue and solder in any project, always hotglue last. It's essential to do the hotglue last as your soldering tool will heat up your wires and connections enough to melt all the hotglue into a huge sticky mess. Batteries: Use 40A 26650's (60A is better if you can find them). Find good quality batteries. Always make sure your batteries are inserted correctly!

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