Fire Emblem: Ashnard's Sword Gurgurant

thingiverse

My youngest sister is a big Ashnard fan. My oldest sister knitted an Ashnard doll as a gift for her birthday, and asked me to make a miniature Gurgurant to go along with it. I made it as accurate as I could, and designed it to print without supports. It prints in six pieces which are then glued together. Enjoy! This model is based on Ashnard's artwork from Fire Emblem: Heroes, in particular his "damaged" picture. The exact ratio of the handle to the blade is based on the trophy of Ashnard from Super Smash Bros Brawl. I designed this to print without supports, but there are a couple of spots, notably on the handle and cross guard, where some may find that they need a bit, particularly if they are printing this at a large scale. I was able to print this just fine with no support at 100% scale. At 100% scale, the tolerance between the parts is 0.005 inches (.13 mm) At 100% scale, the assembled sword is 23.2" long. This size is designed to match the doll I was making it for, which is about 20" tall. However, I made sure to make the model accurate enough that it could be printed at life size if someone wanted to do so. What is "life-size"? According to my measurements (which are based on the trophy of Ashnard from Super Smash Bros Brawl) Gurgurant's length is equal to Ashnard's height multiplied by 1.16. I do not know what Ashnard's official height is, but supposing he is 6' 5", that would make the "life-size" assembled sword's length about 7' 5", or 385% scale. At 100% scale, the blade and the handle are quite large, and will not fit on some printers. My print volume (on my JGAurora A5S) is 305 x 305 x 320 mm, and if I turn the blade diagonally it fits comfortably in that space. If these parts won't fit on your printer, then you'll need to either make them smaller or split them into a couple of pieces. Or, of course, get a bigger printer. I painted this using metallic silver and gold spray paint; silver for the blade, and gold for everything else. Once the blade had dried for a few hours, I painted the flats a dark grey (using a brush and acrylics) to really make the edges stand out and have that "sharpened" look. A few closing notes on parts and assembly: You will of course need one blade, one handle, two crests, and two guards. I recommend gluing the blade and handle together first. Then attach the two crests, and finally the two guards. I used super glue (cyanoacrylate), but you can use whatever you prefer.