Filawinder Cardboard Spool

thingiverse

With my new Filastruder and filawinder firmly in hand, I quickly filled the couple of empty plastic spools I'd been saving. I also wanted some smaller spools for 250G runs of filament to try out custom colors. I designed these simple spool holders with materials at hand that would fit the filawinder spooler and wouldn't bind on the servo arm. The first position is close, so you may need to move back one notch. By using the same sides and varying the spool drum width (90mm postal tube), you can create 250G, 500G,1Kg spools, or even bigger if you like. Measurements: End diameter = 200mm Centre hole Diameter = 40mm Drum Diameter = 90mm I designed around a 90mm postal tube cut into the following lengths: 25mm = 250G 50mm = 500G 90mm = 1Kg I've done the calculations for PLA and ABS for 1.75mm filament, but not for 3mm. I strongly suggest cutting out the additional reinforcing pieces as well; these strengthen the spool hole considerably and should allow for multiple reuse on the filawinder. NOTE: Do NOT put in oven or heated dehydrator to dry filament once on spool as hotglue will come unstuck. I totally forgot about the hotglue and found out the hard way – doh! See photo above, it was easy to repair though and didn't have to re-spool phew! How I Designed This Using the calculators at ingersollrandproducts.com/lifting/winches/drum.htm and ideee.3deee.ch/?page_id=816, I calculated drum capacity based on my spool specs. From these calculators, the recommended working drum capacity (in meters) is used to calculate filament weight in either ABS or PLA. Some additional headroom has been allowed for as you'll see if you do the calculations yourself. You can see by the photo of the spool on the scale how the capacity is (250g), this was taken after taring with an empty spool. Assembly 1) Cut out two sides and highly recommend the two reinforcing pieces. 2) Cut length of 90mm postal tube to suit: - 250g = 25mm - 500g = 50mm - 1Kg = 90mm 3) Use a hot-glue gun to apply glue to one end of the postal tube and align with the centre marking on the first side. 4) Repeat for the second side; I found it easier to lie the 2nd side piece flat, apply glue to the tube, then look through the center to align as I applied pressure. You have a couple of seconds before the hot-glue sets to quickly align as best as you can. NOTE: The engrave line goes on the inside. 5) Optionally, glue and align the two reinforcing pieces; one to each side. Cutting Sides I used an embazer (laser diode engraver) to cut the cardboard, but it can be easily hand-cut or use a proper laser cutter to save time and give you accuracy. The center line of the side pieces should be an engrave-only cut as this is an alignment locator mark to aid gluing for assembly. Emblazer settings for 3mm cardboard: Engrave Cut Centre Line: 3500mm/min, 100%, 1 pass Cut Through rest: 1000mm/min, 100%, 8 passes Tube I hand-cut the tube by first marking with a compass set to the correct width from one end. I used a hacksaw and slowly turned the cylinder as I made small cuts along the line. This allowed me to get nice square ends without collapsing the cardboard tube. If you have an easier way, please share. Material and Tools needed Tools: Laser Cutter (easy) or knife/scissors (harder) Hacksaw (fine tooth) Compass to mark cut off Hot Glue gun. Materials: 3mm Cardboard 90mm Postal Tube