FIFO Rolling Can Pantry Organizer

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So, this is, to date, my largest and most intricate design/build yet! If you're like me and have cabinets overflowing with canned goods - always be prepared for anything - you know what a challenge it is to keep those rotated so that the oldest cans can be taken first. This solves that problem once and for all. Simply drop your can into the opening on top, and it will roll down to the bottom. As you take a can from the bottom opening, the next can in line will roll down to take its place. By filling the rack from the top and taking from the bottom, you ensure that the oldest can is always pulled first. There are two versions included here. The build plate on my Tevo Tarantula is the standard 200x200mm so I had to cut the model into pieces to make it fit. For those with larger beds or those having this printed in full, I have also included the original model with full-size panels as a ZIP file. You can ignore this if you'll be printing this piece by piece. A word of warning: this takes a LOT of filament. My print utilized 351.55m and 1004g - right at or just over a typical 1kg roll. Use the cheapest filament you can find, as looks aren't important here. You can always sand it and paint it after assembly if you want. Print Settings Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.3mm Infill: 10% Notes: Most of these pieces print best when the text is face down with supports, if your bed is large enough - keep reading for more details. The four shelf panels need to be laid flat against the bed. Cura has a button under [Rotate] that does that automatically; otherwise, the angle is 5°. As I said, my build plate is the original 200x200mm. These panels do NOT fit on a bed that size laying flat. I know this, but there was nothing I could do about it. The first panel I printed, I printed standing on edge diagonally across the bed. For this, you'll need supports enabled everywhere. This printed well - maybe even with more strength - but there's a lot of cleanup. For the rest of the panels, I cheated. I cut a piece of glass 200x250 and placed it on the heatbed with the edge hanging over slightly at the front. I then moved the Y-axis end stop back so that the printer could home to the left front corner. I also had to tell Cura and OctoPrint that I was using a larger bed, and I had to modify the maximum XY size in the Marlin firmware. It works! I recommend printing this at the fastest speed your printer will allow. The cheap filament I used didn't bond together at anything over 60mm/sec, so I could only print three to four panels a day. Post-Printing This is designed to fit together like a jigsaw puzzle. You'll notice that each panel is labeled as to its position and which tabs go together. If you can assemble IKEA furniture, then you can put this together. I used Duco cement on some panels and E6000 cement on others; either seems to hold together just fine, but I would suggest the E6000 for this application since the longer cure time indicates a stronger bond. Assembly is easier if the rear panel is attached last. A friend commented on how plain the front was - we decided that the upper front panel is a great place to paste the label of the cans stored in each rack. How I Designed This This was designed in my go-to CAD program, Sketchup. Contrary to popular opinion, this is a GREAT program that's easy to use and creates perfectly 3D printable models if you know what you're doing. Like any program, there's a learning curve, but it's nothing like that of Blender or FreeCAD! I tried cutting a slew of 20mm diameter holes in the sides to cut down on the amount of filament necessary, but that didn't result in a significant drop in filament use. The reason is this: as designed, 99% of the panel is 10% infill with only the outer edges needing full fill. Now when I cut holes, yes, the total surface area is reduced, but the edges around each hole now need full fill - this adds almost as much filament as the holes themselves remove. If you can figure out a way to reduce the amount of filament needed, I would LOVE to see it!