Fanatec Emulator QR Adapter for Pro Mini V2 PCB

thingiverse

Fanatec's wheelbases won't enable any force feedback, unless you have a Fanatec steering wheel attached to it. This thing uses [lshachar brilliant project](https://github.com/lshachar/Arduino_Fanatec_Wheel) to emulate a Fanatec Rim and thus enable FFB. # What you'll need: * Fanatec QR * Pro Mini V2 (it has to be the V2, as it is the only Pro Mini which can run 16 MHz at 3.3V) * FTDI Adapter USB to TTL Programmer * PCB (can be found in files section) * upload `Gerber.zip` to a PCB service like JLCPCB and order them * 6x M5x20mm countersunk screws (e.g. DIN 7991) optional: * 8 pin JST connector * 2x M2.5 screws to secure the pcb to the 3D model # How To * Make sure that the solder bridge on the Pro Mini is set to 3.3V * uncomment following lines: * `#define HAS_TM1637_DISPLAY` - we are not using the TM1637 display module * `#define HAS_ANALOG_DPAD` - otherwise the funky switch is constantly pressed * Program the Pro Mini using the option ATmega328P (5V, 16 MHz) * Mark the cable coming from the QR which is 5V [(image showing the pin arrangement from Fanatec QR)](https://camo.githubusercontent.com/5617cfdd15a84adf5d2c68538683b8818f7314baebaf644842aad42b1f1a24e2/687474703a2f2f692e696d6775722e636f6d2f57617a714e5a6c6d2e6a7067) * Solder the cables onto the pcb. Make sure that the marked cable (5V) is aligned with the 5V PCB pin * You can either solder the wires coming from the Fanatec QR directly to the PCB (recommended) or use an 8 pin JST connector so you can plug the cables coming from the QR into it * I had connection problems using the JST connector as the cable did not stick in correctly all the time, so I just soldered the wires and everything worked fine afterwards. * Bend the cable so that it fits into the QR housing * Take the 3D printed QR adapter, put two M2.5 screws into each hole to secure the pcb * Make sure that the cable is not squeezed and use the six M5 screws to mount it to the Fanatec QR * Done! # Warning If you ever connect the FTDI to the board while also having it connected to the wheelbase **make sure to remove the VCC pin on the FTDI interface**, otherwise it might **damage your wheelbase** because this will connect the 3.3V coming from the FTDI with the 3.3V of the wheelbase. # Downsides * In some rare cases my base reconnects if I connect the emulator to it. Nothing wild, just let it recalibrate and you're ready to race [More information can be found here](https://github.com/lshachar/Arduino_Fanatec_Wheel)