Fan-Mounted LED Strip for Dragon Mount

prusaprinters

<p>The Orbiter/Dragon mount upgrade eliminates the stock LED holder.</p><p>I have a BTT SKR CR6 board and wanted to preserve the feature where that LED flickers when the firmware is flashing or loading. &nbsp;I have also been disappointed with the dimness of the stock blue LED, and envious of those who had replaced it with a white LED.</p><p>When I bought a 5' &nbsp;Cobb LED strip to illuminate the enclosure around my Ender3, I seized the opportunity to trim 40mm (~1.57", three segments) off the end of that strip. I soldered a short length of fan wire onto the pre-soldered pads at the end of that strip, designed and printed this thing, and installed the strip on the unused screw holes at the bottom of the hotend cooling fan.</p><p>I provide two versions, here:<br>&nbsp;- one is mounted to the fan with two M2.5x16mm screws.<br>&nbsp;- the other is mounted with a built-in peg and a single M2.5x16mm screw.</p><p>I used M2.5 bolts and nuts instead of M3, to allow the thinest part of the hole wall as much thickness as I could give it. &nbsp;The M2.5's do rattle a bit in the fan holes, so take care that the mount is horizontal when tightened. &nbsp;</p><p>The peg on the “pegged” version is 2.8mm in diameter, to minimize that "rattling." &nbsp;</p><p>If the M2.5 bolt is inserted from the back of the fan, it will cut a thread into the hole in the mount &amp; will not need a nut. &nbsp;In that case, you may prefer to use an M2.5x14mm bolt, if you have one, and just paint the tip of the bolt the same colour as the mount, to give a “clean” finish.</p><p><strong>Update 9 Feb 2022:</strong></p><p>The first version was open under the LED strip, which allowed a lot of glare from the bed to spoil digital camera images of the print. &nbsp;I experimented with adding a diffuser, but that did not solve the problem.</p><p>Version 2 has instead added a baffle, which blocks the downward light and lateral leakage, only permitting light in the direction of the nozzle and of the print under the nozzle.</p><p>Version 2 also improves on the print ability and orientation of the model, to produce a stronger print, with no supports required. &nbsp;The example in the photos was printed with a 0.8mm nozzle, because that was what I had on the printer at the time. &nbsp;The face is a bit ugly, in consequence, but the part is solid.</p><p>I have removed the first version files and uploaded only V2.</p><p>FYI - I also photographed the wiring, to help anyone who is soldering their own harness to the LEDs and who wonders which wire is +5vdc and which is ground, on the daughterboard connector.</p>