Fallout 4 Mini Nuke Bluetooth Speaker and RGBW Nightlight

prusaprinters

This is a 3D Printable model of a Fallout 4 Mini Nuke which has provision for a Bluetooth speaker and RGB lighting in a translucent top that can be used as a nightlight or just as a display piece.Re-Mix Notes The Fallout 4 Mini Nuke Storage Box by Starscream83 was used as a starting point for this project. Starscream83 kindly provided the original solid files for his model, which made editing a far simpler task.<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1235346">Fallout 4 Mini Nuke Storage Box by Starscream83 - Thingiverse</a>The top may be printed with transparent red filament if you wish to be somewhat accurate to the game (obviously the mini nuke in the game doesn't have RGBW lighting and is therefore not transparent). I opted to print one in transparent red PETG and another in transparent clear PETG. Since the lighting is RGBW, if you print in the red you will lose all the color detail and the result will be all different shades of red. The transparent clear can obviously show all the color variation possible.<h3>Printing notes </h3>Print 4 copies of the fin.Supports are required for the top, main body, fin, and yellow ring. 3MF files contain support enforcers for the areas of concern. The top is printed with Archimedean chords in order to transmit as much light as possible from the Neopixel jewel to the surface of the print. The hinge and hinge cap were printed with 100% infill to ensure adequate strength.Filaments Used Any PLA or PETG can be used for all the parts other than the top, as they will likely be painted. If you choose not to paint, then you can use the following:3D Solutech Camo Green PLA: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN8H2LQ/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1<a href="https://www.amazon.com?linkCode=ll2&tag=thingiverse09-20&linkId=e4759bff1fa9a55a0f897d801ce2d765&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl">Amazon</a> Basics Yellow PETG: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T1QD5WW/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1Note: Since I did paint, I did not order a solid red filament for doing the fins. I printed with the camo green PLA.The Solutech Merlot red PLA would be a good choice if you don't want to paint: https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B07BN986CN/ref=sr\_1\_3?dchild=1&keywords=dark+red+PLA&qid=1615962989&sr=8-3Options for Top Overture Clear PETG: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SB761QR/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1<a href="https://www.amazon.com?linkCode=ll2&tag=thingiverse09-20&linkId=e4759bff1fa9a55a0f897d801ce2d765&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl">Amazon</a> Basics Translucent RED PETG https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T61GZMN/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1If you build this project, please post send images of your completed project!<h5>Print Settings</h5> Printer Brand:PrusaPrinter:I3 MK3SRafts:No (with the exception of the hinge part)Supports:As needed. See 3MF files for suggested enforcer locations. G-code includes supports where necessary.Resolution:0.15 mm layer heightInfill:15% (except for hinge and hinge cap which are done at 100%). All use gyroid infill with the exception of top which is done with Archimedean chords to allow maximum light transmission to surface. Filament: Various PLA/PETG Various <h3>Post-Printing Build Guide</h3> General Notes The hinge mechanism is designed to allow removal of the top so that you can change it out with one printed with a different filament if you so desire. You will need to use spade terminals on the Adafruit NeoPixel Jewel wiring if you wish to do this and do not want to de-solder connections each time you change the top out. When running the wiring from the NeoPixel Jewel, I found that making a small hooked tool out of a paper clip allowed me to pass one wire at a time through the "tunnel" which passes through the top.Use of the neodymium magnets on the top and green ring are optional as I found that it stays in place quite well without them, although they do a good job of keeping the top in place. When you lift and swing the top out of the way to access the control panel, remember that your RGB wire harness is running through the hinge, so return the top by rotating in the opposite direction you used when opening it or you will twist and bind the wiring.Finishing of the 3D Printed Parts Finishing of the model as shown in the two photos was accomplished by sanding with 60 through 5000 grit wet-dry sandpaper. The Transparent tops were polished using successive grades of paper all the way up to 5000 grit. The rest of the parts were sanded to the point that layer lines were minimized (around 600 grit) and then sprayed with a sand-able filler primer. Once dry, this was sanded again and another coat of primer applied.Once sanded and primed, the parts were all spray painted. The green ring was masked off so that the interior could be painted in a chrome paint to simulate a steel interior. I used the following paints to finish the pieces:Rust-oleum Painters Touch 2X Ultracover Paint+Primer - Summer Squash Satin (334079) Rust-oleum Painters Touch 2X Ultracover Paint+Primer - Colonial Red (334063) Rust-oleum Camouflage 2X Ultracover - Army green (279176) Krylon 2 in 1 Primer (filler & sandable) (8608) Krylon Colormaster Metallic - Brilliant Silver (3452)Weathering of Hardware and 3D Printed Parts All of the external screws were weathered using the following process. I recommend doing this in a glass bowl. First place all hardware in a bath of white vinegar and allow to soak for approximately five hours. Stir occasionally. Once that is done, rinse the parts with warm water and pad dry. Next, place the parts in a bath of hydrogen peroxide and allow them to set for about two hours, stirring occasionally. Again, when done, rinse with warm water and pad dry. You should have a bit of pitting and patina forming at this point. The final step is to place the parts into a small amount (just enough to coat the parts by stirring in the bowl) of Birchwood Casey Perma Blue, or your favorite gun bluing solution :). Stir the parts in the Perma Blue for 30 seconds and them immediately rinse the parts under warm water thoroughly. Pat dry with paper towels and then lay out on power towels to dry thoroughly overnight. Using this process you should achieve quite dark, aged, and slightly rusty looking screws.Weathering of the painted parts can be done with an airbrush or by hand. Many techniques can be found on YouTube for weathering models. You want to achieve a grimey, rusty effect to match the aesthetics of the game and should be using blacks, browns and reds primarily.Humbrol black weathering powder is great for applying a gritty dirty look to the model (use newspaper under the model and wear gloves. This stuff will get everywhere and you will have black grime on everything for weeks if you don't take care). You can apply with a dry brush, letting the powder dust over the model, getting into all the cracks and crevices as real dirt, dust and grime would. Use a sacrificial towel or paper towels to smear the powder in interesting ways. If you overdo it, rubbing alcohol can be used to remove it from the model (or your hands). Be careful with this however, you can end up with a very unnatural effect if you end up wiping to much.A good rust color can be achieved with Mission Models MMP-013 Red Oxide (German WWII RAL 3009). This can be applied with a thin, fine brush, or a sharp, pointed awl, or even the tip of an Exacto blade to simulate rust streaks where water would naturally run and pool over the model, such as screw slots, rims, joints and junctions, etc.Once you have the weathering effects you want applied, set and protect them by applying several coats of a flat clear sealer. I used Tamiya Color Flat Clear (TS-80). If you used any of the black weathering powder, this will prevent any of that from rubbing off onto literally everything it touches. I can not stress the importance of this step if you want to save your clothes.<h3>Parts List </h3>Rockler Bluetooth Speaker Kit <a href="https://www.rockler.com/rockler-wireless-speaker-kit-with-playback-volume-controls">https://www.rockler.com/rockler-wireless-speaker-kit-with-playback-volume-controls</a>Adafruit Trinket M0: <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3500">https://www.adafruit.com/product/3500</a>Adafruit NeoPixel Jewel: <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/2860">https://www.adafruit.com/product/2860</a>Adafruit Perma-Proto Half-sized Breadboard PCB: <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1609">https://www.adafruit.com/product/1609</a>Lithium Ion Battery: <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/353">https://www.adafruit.com/product/353</a> (Note: Technically you may not need this, however the Rockler kit comes with a smallish 500mAh battery. As such, this replacement should get you more than 13x the run time.Hookup Wire: <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3111">https://www.adafruit.com/product/3111</a>LED Lamp Holder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WNMNS9P/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1Lighting Power Indicator LED: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077XD7MVB/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1Lighting Power Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L74MMG8/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1Lighting Mode, Reset, and Control Switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752RMB7Q/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1Miscellaneous Hardware: qty 6 - M5 x 0.7 x 8mm stainless steel socket head screw qty 30 - M4 x 0.7 x 8mm stainless steel socket head screw qty 6 - M2 x 0.4 x 4mm stainless steel socket head screw qty 1 - M5 x 0.8 x 30mm partially threaded, Black-oxide alloy steel socket head screw<h3>Assembly </h3>I have modeled everything except the wiring in the AutoDesk Fusion 360 F3D and the STEP file, including hardware and electronics placement. This can be used as a guide for where the parts go.A board layout of the RGBW lighting parts is shown in the included in the Fritzing PNG file attached. Prusa Printers doesn't allow attaching Fritzing FZZ files, so let me know in comments or a message and will see about putting up a cloud drive link.The following pushbutton switch colors and their corresponding connection on the Adafruit Trinket M0 are as follows:White: RST pin Black: 0 pin Red: 2 pin Green: 3 pin Blue: 4 pinAlso, the power for the RGBW lighting is taken from the Rockler control board (not shown in Fritzing file). You will find two unused holes and solder pads marked GND and BAT+. Temporarily remove the PCB from the control board to gain access to the back side of the PCB. You will want your wires on the side of the PCB normally facing outwards, trim, twist and tin the leads and run them through the solder pad holes. I needed to use a Dremel tool to enlarge holes enough to pass the wire. Be careful to use as small a bit as you can to just enlarge enough for the wire. A 1 mm bit should be sufficient. This will give you direct access to the battery plugged into the Rocker control panel. A SPST power switch will allow for independent powering of the RGBW lighting. You will use the buttons on the Rockler control panel to turn the Bluetooth speaker on and off, and to change volume manually. Once powered on, it's easier to control volume from your phone (or other Bluetooth audio source).The Adafruit Perma-Proto half-sized breadboard PCB was used as a wiring hub to consolidate all the ground, power, data, and switch connections. You could conceivably do point-to-point wiring and skip the breadboard, however I think it results in a cleaner layout which is less prone to errors.<h3>Lighting Control Code and Button Functionality </h3>Arduino code to run on the Adafruit trinket M0 can be found in the following GitHub repository:<a href="https://github.com/Dhardrian/neo_pixel_state_machine">https://github.com/Dhardrian/neo\_pixel\_state\_machine</a>I'd like to make a special shout out to dastels on the Adafruit forums for his assistance building the state machine and lighting functionality code for this project. The project code design thread can be found here:<a href="https://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=175340">https://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=175340</a>Lighting Button FunctionalityGiven the color code of the push buttons given in the assembly section, the following operating modes can be executed:Reset Microcontroller to Default Push white buttonSolid White Mode After a reset, the controller will be in Solid White Mode, with all LEDS turned off. Press the red button to turn on the white LEDs, and then increment brightness with each press. There are 16 levels of brightness. Pressing the red button again after having pressed it 16 times will turn the LEDs off again.Pressing the blue button will lower the brightness by one step. Pressing the blue button following a reset (LEDs off) will set the LEDs to the maximum brightness. Each subsequent press will decrease the intensity down to setting 0 which will turn the LEDs off again.Pressing the green button will set the intensity to the middle of the range.Solid Color Mode Pressing the black mode switch once following a reset will put the controller in solid color mode. Pressing any of the red, blue or green buttons will increment the intensity of the corresponding color by one step, again with a maximum of 16. If any level of white intensity was selected in the previous mode, it is carried over to this mode as well. To set solid red at maximum brightness, you would turn power on (or reset), press the black mode switch once and then press the red button 16 times. It is possible to mix red, green and blue at varying intensities to achieve other colors, however keep in mind that changing color intensity of RGBW lights does not work like mixing paint pigments, i.e. blue + green will not yield a yellow LED light effect, you will end up with more of a light blue/teal effect.Breathing, Color Change Mode You can activate this mode by pressing the black mode switch twice after power on or a reset. If you have already set a color in the Solid White or Solid Color Mode, this mode will use that color and ramp intensity up and down in a breathing effect. You may also edit the colors by using the red, green and blue buttons as described in Solid Color Mode. Note: White intensity must be set in Solid White Mode in order to be used by this or the previous breathing mode.Breathing, Variable Rate Mode This mode is entered by pressing the black mode switch three times after power on or reset. It requires that you have set a color and intensity in one of the previous modes. It will use that setting and begin breathing at a middle level rate. The red button will speed the breathing up, the blue will slow it down, and green will reset it back to middle level. Minimum, maximum and step changes for the rates can edited in the Arduino code provided.Flashing, Color Change Mode This mode is achieved by pressing the mode switch four times. It is identical in function to the Breathing, Color Change Mode however it flashes the LEDs on and off at a set rate using the colors and intensity set in previous modes. Red, green and blue buttons can be used to adjust the colors if not previously set. As mentioned previously, in order to mix white in, that must be set in the Solid White Mode.Flashing, Variable Rate Mode This mode is set by pressing the black mode switch a total of five times after power on or reset. As with the previous mode, this is identical in functionality to the Breathing, Variable Rate Mode in terms of button usage. The colors set in previous modes will be fixed and used to flash the LEDs. The red button will speed the flashing up, the blue will slow it down, and green will reset to the mid level flash rate. Increasing with red to maximum level will effectively result in solid on. Likewise, pressing blue until the rate is decreased to minimum will result in LEDs being off. The green button will reset to middle rate.When in this mode, pressing the black mode switch one more time will turn off the LEDs and reset back to Solid White Mode.

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