Extended y-axis tensioner body for Ender 3

prusaprinters

<p>Apparently, my y-axis belt was so stretched that Tekti's original (and V2) tensioner did not have enough adjustment range to tighten the belt adequately. &nbsp;I increased the length of the internal channel of the V2 body by 5mm, so that the “inside” part is now able to slide further back. My belt is snugged up nicely now, and it sings like a guitar string when I pluck it! (I've also ordered a new belt to replace the old, stretched one.)</p><p>Two notes regarding the adjustment screw: I found that a shorter m4 x 15 screw worked better than the m4 x 20 recommended by Tekti for the original. The 20mm screw was hitting the belt, pinning it to the idler bearing when I tightened the screw. The shorter screw worked better for me. &nbsp;I also added a M4 washer under the head of the adjustment screw, so that the screw wouldn't wear against the plastic of the tensioner body. You can see the washer in the photo of my build.&nbsp;</p><p>Assembly notes: The trickiest part for me was keeping the m4 locknut (salvaged from the Ender's OEM tensioner) in place inside the inner part while trying to get the bearings, belt, and adjustment screw all put together. I found that a small dab of superglue on the side of the locknut made this all work much better.&nbsp;</p><p>I have oriented the .stl model to lay correctly on the print bed. The original and V2 models had to be rotated to sit properly. Tekti's build instructions gave some guidance on how to orient the models, because they weren't turned correctly to print as loaded (at least they weren't for me). You shouldn't have to turn this remix.&nbsp;</p><p>You will still need to print an “inside” part from Tekti's original model.&nbsp;</p><p>Tekti's design is sound, and the upgrade works well. If you let your belt go too long before simplifying your life by adding a tensioner, though, maybe my remix will be helpful.&nbsp;</p>