Extended PTFE (PC4-M10) Quick-Fitting Mod for Prusa Drybox [V3]

prusaprinters

<p>This enables you to use the Prusa Dryboxes (not Wall-Mounted version) with a PTFE-Tubing clamp.</p><p>You don't even need to re-print the whole box! This piece simply attaches to the backside of the original drybox using the same screws (M3 10mm screws work perfectly for me.)</p><p>..........................</p><p>This mod works best when you chamfer the end of your PTFE tubing so the filament is guided in smoothly.</p><p>I use this tool to chamfer the inside of my tubing:<br><a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/46984-ptfe-tube-60deg-chamfer-tool-by-printschnitzelat">https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/46984-ptfe-tube-60deg-chamfer-tool-by-printschnitzelat</a></p><p>..........................</p><p>Version 3 of my PTFE adapter for the Prusa Drybox fixes two issues:</p><p>When opening the lid, your filament will no longer get dunked on by the top of the lid. A few of my more brittle filaments got snapped because of this.</p><p>This takes advantage of the wide filament exit slot on the drybox. As filament unwinds, it naturally moves back and forth with the winding of the spool. Prusa designed their drybox with this in mind. My old design forced the filament to exit the box in the center of that wide slot.</p><p>This whole design was intended to alleviate the force on the filament when it was being guided to the center of the exit-slot.</p><h3>V3 Update!</h3><ul><li>I redesigned this from scratch!</li><li>Turns out the threading I was using was 0.1mm off of the correct thread pitch. I had to make a custom threading in Fusion360, and it is fixed now.</li><li>I made the filament path bend the filament with a gradual curve.</li><li>I added arms that keep the lid from opening too wide.</li><li>Finally, I shortened the length so it takes up less room! The file is parametric, so you can try making it even shorter if you want.</li></ul><p>..........................</p><p>This piece is threaded for PC4-M10 quick-fittings for 4mm PTFE tubing (same stuff the prusa mk3s and most other printers use)<br>Here are a couple links of where you can get them, but you might want to search around in case these aren't the cheapest options anymore:<br><a href="https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01KHN1HWY/">https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01KHN1HWY/</a><br><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32866539665.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dDgiAG6">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32866539665.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dDgiAG6</a></p><p>To view or edit the Fusion360 File, you can access it here:<br><a href="https://a360.co/2WZRfcG">https://a360.co/2WZRfcG</a> - V2 (Deprecated)&nbsp;</p><p><a href="https://a360.co/3oOgJr3">https://a360.co/3oOgJr3</a> - V3 (Current)</p><h3>Print instructions</h3><p>PLA is fine since this is probably not inside a hot printer enclosure. I used a bit denser infill (15% gyroid) around the joint, but I'm pretty sure it'll be fine without it.</p><p>10% infill should be just fine.</p><p>I printed with a brim because I print most stuff with a brim.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>V3 Update!</h3><ul><li>I redesigned this from scratch!</li><li>Turns out the threading I was using was 0.1mm off of the correct thread pitch. I had to make a custom threading in Fusion360, and it is fixed now.</li><li>I made the filament path bend the filament with a gradual curve.</li><li>I added arms that keep the lid from opening too wide.</li><li>Finally, I shortened the length so it takes up less room! The file is parametric, so you can try making it even shorter if you want.</li></ul>