Extended bed levelling code for QIDI Tech 1

thingiverse

This is a set of x3g files intended to offer more flexibility and reliability than the default plate levelling file that may be shipped with the QIDI Tech 1. These files are similar to ones originally made for the FlashForge Creator Pro but have modified nozzle positions because the QIDI Tech 1 has the center levelling screw at the rear instead of the front. Carelen notified me about this difference. The features include: 1. Files for levelling only the right (R), left (L), or both (LR) nozzles. 2. Files for different levelling sheet thicknesses. 3. Nozzles are positioned exactly above each adjustment screw. 4. Nozzles are placed just outside the recessed zone of each screw to avoid inaccurate levelling if using a non-rigid material like tape or BuildTak. 5. Advanced files that keep the bed and extruders heated during levelling. Since I don't have a QIDI Tech 1, don't hesitate to post a comment or private message if you think these files need tweaking. Files are offered for three different levelling sheet thicknesses: 0.10, 0.15, and 0.20 mm. Ideally, use the files with the number that matches your sheet's thickness in micrometers divided by 10. For example, if using a 0.2 mm thick sheet, use the '20' files. The regular files are named like: "Level-{extruders}-{sheet_thickness}". If printing with one extruder only, use the *‘L’* files for left, *‘R’* for right, and *‘LR’* for dual extrusions. An example is *“Level-R-20.x3g”*. The less important files are provided in separate zip files for advanced use. To use these files: 1. Choose the correct levelling file(s) and put it (them) on your SD card. 2. Preheat the bed to the temperature you will be using during the print. 3. 'Print' the levelling file and follow the instructions on the LCD. The nozzle will be positioned above each adjustment knob. Tighten the knob until you can slide your levelling sheet under the nozzle, then loosen it until you feel a good deal of friction but can still easily move the sheet. To verify everything works correctly: 1. Do a test print with only one layer of known thickness. 2. Measure how thick this printed layer is using an accurate calliper or micrometer. 3. It should correspond roughly to the first layer thickness as configured in your slicer program. If it's way off, check the next paragraph. By ensuring that your first layer is printed at the correct thickness, you can tweak the following things to get optimal adhesion: 1. First layer extrusion width: I usually take 150% of the nozzle diameter. 2. First layer thickness: I never go below 0.25 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle. 3. First layer speed: I usually stay within the range of 20 to 30 mm/s. If your first layer is consistently too thick or thin: 1. Check the *“Home offsets”* setting in the printer's LCD menu and adjust the value for Z until your first layer has the expected thickness when following the levelling procedure. 2. If the printed layer is too thick, reduce the offset value and vice versa. For example, after upgrading my FFCP's firmware, all my prints suddenly had way too tall first layers with horribly bad adhesion as a result. I measured the thickness of single-layer test prints, and they were consistently too thick by 0.15 mm. Somehow, the new firmware had changed the Z homing offset. By changing it to -0.15 mm in the menu, things were back to normal.