Experimental Predator Ducts

thingiverse

The ultimate goal of this innovative design is to maximize air flow directly under the nozzle, thereby significantly improving bridging and overhang performance. By directing cool air at the hottest areas where plastic will be extruded, we can achieve maximum cooling effect. Although this approach may result in some air blowing towards the bottom of the block, a well-designed block sock can effectively mitigate this issue, ultimately enhancing overall cooling performance. My research has revealed that most existing designs either direct air downwards where it is least needed or simply blow air in the general direction of the filament nozzle, which is why I created my own design. Version 5.3 now offers two options: one for 4020 fans and another for 4010 fans, both boasting 60-80% more room airflow than version 4. These designs should provide ample space for a v6 block, although I do not personally own one to confirm. Like previous versions 4 and 5, they feature 360-degree cooling. Versions 5.0 and 5.1 were unable to fit, while version 5.2 was usable but ultimately unsatisfactory. I have also designed MY 5015 to 4020 adapters similar to those pictured, which can be found on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4132675. The 4010 version is simply a quick adaptation of the 4020 design, as I did not test or use it. However, it only took me five minutes to modify, so I decided to share it anyway. I have included an overhang test picture printed using the version 5 duct, showcasing impressive results despite my print temperature being too high and the bed needing re-leveling after switching from PTEG to PLA. The overhang quality is exceptional, even surpassing that of my Army Ant Duct, with a print speed of approximately 100mm/s (estimated average). DISCLAIMER: Modifying your printer at your own risk may cause clogs or potentially damage the hot end. Be cautious when working with the cooling system and avoid stripping out screw holes on the effector plate, as I experienced this issue myself. Your effector plate should be nearly level to use version 4 or 5. If you have arms of varying lengths, address this problem before using these designs. I personally encountered issues with inconsistent leveling, which were resolved by purchasing replacement parts and creating a measuring jig with finishing nails. These models were printed with PETG, but ABS or other high-temperature plastics should work just as well. The designs feature thick walls on the side facing the hotend to prevent warping, a common issue I've encountered with thinner-walled ducts. I have found that slicing these models correctly requires a line width of no more than 0.4mm. To avoid supports being generated within the model or exhaust holes, set the support threshold to 2 degrees in Prusa Slicer or enable "supports on build plate only" in Cura. Slic3r may require disabling the detect thin walls feature depending on the design. Please note that these designs are among my first attempts at CAD creation, so they may not be refined. They were created using Sketchup and should be ready to slice after fixing with 3D Builder. I have also designed a demonstration model that can be hooked up to a garden hose to illustrate the airflow shape, which is not perfect but demonstrates that most air should flow downward below the block rather than at it. The demonstration models pictured here were created from my 1.4 and 3.0 designs. Version 3 boasts optimized airflow compared to versions 1.4 or 2, and I have personally been using this design but will soon switch to my 5015 design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4097656. Old update: versions 4.1 and 4.2 feature 360-degree cooling and improved internal geometry, which enhance airflow downward. Version 4.2 includes minor tweaks to direct airflow better. You will need to remove the bed level sensor or use my modified bed level sensor housing to re-level the bed with version 4.