EX6 Arcade Fight Stick

thingiverse

<body> <h1>EX6 Arcade Fight Stick</h1> What started as just doing a few tweaks to an existing model turned into a near full redesign and a (almost) fully printable arcade/fight stick case platform; the EX6. Printable on the Ender 3 or any 200x200 printer. Assembled top panel size of 12.5" Wide x 7.875" High, gives a full sized arcade feel with plenty of space for your hands. The modular design of this stick allows you to choose & print a variety of top panel options so you try different button layouts and various sticks as well. Top panels for both Japanese & Korean sticks and multiple 6 button layouts are included, with more to come. Button layouts will fit any 30mm button of your choice, Sanwa, Seimitsu, Crown, etc. The bottom pieces come with various button hole layouts for start, select, home, turbo and a mounting for a Neutrik NAUSB-W A/B USB Feed-Through adapter. Also included are joystick spacers so you can set the stick to your desired height and a pcb mount for Brooks ZeroPi & UFB* control boards (both should be the same size YMMV). Remixed from the Full Size Arcade Stick by jasondemeter (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3514821">thing:3514821</a>). Hardware Need: 10 - M4x12 Screws (For Case) 2 - M4x16 or M4x20 Screws (For Joystick Mounting) Size depends on spacer used. 14 - M4 Nuts 6 - M3x12 Screws (For Neutrik USB [2] + PCB Mount [4]) 6 – M3 Nuts Neutrik NAUSB-W A/B USB Feed-Through Non-Slip Surface Grip Pads - for bottom of case. ( I used these off Amazon - <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SL0KJC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="new">SoftTouch Self-Stick Non-Slip Surface Grip Pads</a>) <h2>Top Panel Options: </h2> Top Left EX 60mm Japanese.stl – 40mmx85mm mount holes will fit Sanwa & Seimitsu sticks or any others that use the same mounting Top Left EX 60mm Korean.stl – 50mmx73mm mount holes with full collar hole (35mm) Top Right EX 60mm Vewlix.stl – Vewlix layout based on the dimensions from <a href="http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html" target="new">slagcoin.com</a> Top Right EX 60mm Slant36.stl – Slant Hori style layout based on the dimensions from <a href="http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html" target="new">slagcoin.com</a> Top Right EX 60mm Noir.stl – Noir Layout based on artwork spec from <a href="https://focusattack.com/" target="new">focusattack.com</a> NEW! 1/16/21 Top Right EX 60mm SegaP1.stl – Sega P1 style layout based on the dimensions from <a href="http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html" target="new">slagcoin.com</a> Top Right EX 60mm SegaP2.stl – Sega P2 style layout based on the dimensions from <a href="http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html" target="new">slagcoin.com</a> <h2>Instructions:</h2> <h3>You will need print:</h3> 1 Top Right Panel 1 Top Left Panel 1 Bottom Right 1 Bottom Left Joystick Spacer PCB Mount (Optional) <h3>Printing Tips:</h3> The bottom pieces are a tight fit, you most likey will need to adjust the Horizontal Expansion setting in the slicer to get them to fit together. I'm printing them at -.15mm, but depending on your printers calibration this number will be different. Bottom pieces will need supports, top pieces do not. Tops should be set flat on the build plate and dropped -0.5mm into the build plate to remove the overhang on the bottom couple layers. The pcb mount needs supports, the holes are undersized so the screws can just screw in. The joystick spacers can be resized on the z axis in your slicer so you can make them any height you want. Iv found 3mm to be perfect for Sanwa JLFs and the 5mm to be good for the Korean sticks. Seimitsu sticks can vary in shaft length so you may need some testing to see what you like. I don't use a spacer with the LS-40 or LS32 due to the shorter shaft height. <h3>Assembly:</h3> Snap the bottom piece together and get them to fit as flat as possible to each other. Since the fit is tight sometimes a few whacks with a rubber mallet is need to get them level to each other. (Dont get crazy with it) Screw the two sides together (M4 x 12) through the mounts at the top centers of the bottom pieces. The bottom pieces should be glued together for maximum stability after being screwed together. Running some medium or thin CA glue over the seam has worked well for me (do it from the inside of the case to keep the bottom looking good) Glue the nuts into the top panels with some CA glue. The nuts will pop into the holes on the top panels but are not tight enough on their own. Be sure that the nuts are sitting flat in the holes so you don't get any mis threading when screwing the bolts in. 8 M4 x 12 screws will secure the tops in place If you are using a joystick spacer the best way to install it is to screw the mounting screws to the top panel, then add the spacer, then screw the joystick on with 2 more nuts. The holes in the spacers are sized to fit over the nuts. This makes installing the joystick easier and lets you do it with just a wrench, the first set of nuts will hold the bolts in place and keep them from spinning when you are installing the joystick. If using the pcb mount use 4 – M3 x 12 screws. Screw them into the bottom of the pcb mount, add the board and then use M3 nuts to secure it. The Brooks ZerPi board only needs 3 screws, the one by the USB plug is almost impossible to get on so just leave it off. In the files there is the Brooks PCB Nut Tool.stl which is a small wrench for the M3 nuts to make screwing them on much easier. The pcb mount holes are undersized so the screws can just screw in to the mount itself, the nuts are only needed to hold the board in place. You can mount it to the case with strong tape, I used servo tape. The last 2 M3x12 screws can be used for the Neutrik NAUSB-W A/B USB Feed-Through if it didn't come with any. </body>

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