Evolution X-axis carriage for FLSun i3 (integrated tensioner, v6 clamp mount)

thingiverse

Integrated belt tensioner E3d v6 clamp mount Slotted bearing mounts Improved cooling Improved nozzle visibility with v6 Upgraded X-axis carriage for the FLSun prusa i3 Remixed original FLSun model adding integrated belt tensioner while retaining original fitment and functionality without adding too much weight. The tensioner uses easy slip-in belt clamp and M3x35mm bolt, captive nut, and washer. Newest "Evolution" version fits using a clamp mount with m4x25mm bolts and captive nuts for the e3d v6 style hotend mount. Nut holes are modeled square to accept the square nuts that came with the kit or normal nuts. It moves the hotend mounting point 5mm forward and clearanced so the v6 heater block can be oriented with the long cartridge clamp end towards the rear, allowing better visibility of the nozzle. Y-endstop needs to be adjusted 5mm forward to match. Included is a little Y-stop spacer that gets rid of the nuts used as spacers and gives the option of relocating the stop by 5mm. Because the rod holes in the original z-carriage blocks appear to have been eyeballed a bit too deep, or have no end stop at all in the case of the top left, the belt can pull the z-carriages together and the load is put on the z-rods which flex at the center. Clamps are needed on the x-rods just inside the blocks, or use my z-carriage blocks (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2288811) which have the holes blocked at the correct depth, to put the load on the x-rods. If You make it, please post it! Print Settings Printer: FLSun i3 Resolution: .2 Infill: 25% Notes: I read that Prusa uses three perimeters with 25% infill on their factory parts, that should be a good balance of strong and light for the carriage. I suggest printing the tensioner block with 100% infill for best strength. Support spacing and other dimensions designed for .2 or .1mm resolution. The factory model has bearing holes 15.3mm in diameter to account for part shrinkage. These were a tight fit on the original part, making it hard to remove the bearings, and on my well-tuned printer they were too accurate, and so too large, leaving the bearings loose. The slotted version solves both of those issues; the bearing holes are modeled at 15.1mm which should give a tight fit with a bit of flexibility. It also helps speed up printing and gives a cleaner, more accurate bearing hole since it is now part of the exterior perimeter, and so can be printed in the same extrusion and without its own seam. If using igus or other drylin-style bushings without the metal sleeve stick to the un-slotted version; these bearings need a tight press-fit so that they are squeezed a little in order to achieve tight tolerances on the rods. Use the test tubes if You want a quick test print to check the dimensional accuracy of your printer at the different IDs, also see more on tuning your printer here:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2276869 PLA has worked fine for me so far, even when printing ABS with the printer covered. If You're printing high temperature materials and your printer is enclosed, consider using PETG or ABS due to their higher heat resistance.