Eurorack Modular Synth (7U) Stand

prusaprinters

<h3>Eurorack Modular Synth 7U Stand</h3> <p>This object was designed on request for a friend, Brett. The idea is simply to raise and tilt his modular synth setup. The model is simple 2 pieces, a front and back connected via M5x20 screws/nuts, which should be printed twice each for a left and right, and then these two sides are connected via dowels. This allows variable width while also allowing the stands more stability.</p> <p>It might work for other sizes of Eurorack's, but to frank... I've got no idea.</p> <h3> How?</h3> <p>I designed this in Fusion 360. I recently started playing around with it, the project came up, felt like a perfect fit. I asked Brett to get me the dimensions for the rack. As it's a rectangle it's not hard to design around it, the most difficult part was designing something that is large enough and at the requested tilt that could still be printed on my Prusa i3 MK3.</p> <p>I added in lots of fillets around the edges to just make it look more professional and not worry about the edges being too rough/sharp.</p> <h3> Would you change anything?</h3> <p>I'd probably make the gaps between lattice legs larger. Mounting the front and back together was ... annoying. I'm personally fine with it as is though. I prefer the added strength and I'd have to remove one of the legs to get the gaps bigger.</p> <h3> What other parts are needed to build this?</h3> <p>M5x20 screws: 4<br/> M5 nuts: 4 (nylock preferred)<br/> 1/2" dowel: 3 (whatever length you'd like for your rack)</p> <h3> Print Settings</h3> <p>First off, if you have a large enough print bed, you should be able to print both front and back at the same time. In the images you can see a screenshot of my setup in Slic3rPE, I simply rotated back piece 180. These settings are with a 0.4mm nozzle, adjust accordingly.</p> <p>Layer height: 0.2mm<br/> Perimeters: 3 (recommend at least a full 1mm thick wall for strength)<br/> Infill: 25% (could go higher but DANG these bois were heavy, they feel PLENTY solid to me)<br/> Supports: NOPE. Hashtag no support life.</p> <p>Again, print both pieces twice. Otherwise the stand is going to be ... unstable.</p> <h3> Building it</h3> <p>Once your front and back are printed, grab 4 M5x20 screws and matching nuts. I recommend nylock nuts, but regular nuts will work although they'll eventually back out probably.</p> <p>Grab a pair of needle nose pliers.</p> <p>Now, putting the front and back together is going to fun. As shown in the pictures, take one of the screws and tilt it at an angle to the back stand. Place the tip of the screw into one of the holes, and tilt it until the screw is straight. The head of the screw will be right up against the next lattice leg. Use the pliers to spin the screw until it's stable and in the screw hole securely.</p> <p>Spin it until it's only partially sticking out of the other side, a few turns. There's a picture above of where I stopped. Repeat with each screw.</p> <p>Once all 4 are in, grab the front. Use the partially sticking out bits to line things up, and get back to spinning the screws in fully.</p> <p>Once you've got that, throw your nuts on there and you're almost done.</p> <p>Do all of that twice, now you just need your dowels. Brett's local hardware store had mislabeled their dowels, so he had to whittle the ends down which it sounds like he prefers as they're very secure. However, I designed them to fit a 1/2" dowel with a light amount of glue to hold them in place. Take your pick, let me know if it's way off.</p> <h3>Print instructions</h3><h3>Category: Music Summary</h3> <h3> Eurorack Modular Synth 7U Stand</h3> <p>This object was designed on request for a friend, Brett. The idea is simply to raise and tilt his modular synth setup. The model is simple 2 pieces, a front and back connected via M5x20 screws/nuts, which should be printed twice each for a left and right, and then these two sides are connected via dowels. This allows variable width while also allowing the stands more stability.</p> <p>It might work for other sizes of Eurorack's, but to frank... I've got no idea.</p> <h3> How?</h3> <p>I designed this in Fusion 360. I recently started playing around with it, the project came up, felt like a perfect fit. I asked Brett to get me the dimensions for the rack. As it's a rectangle it's not hard to design around it, the most difficult part was designing something that is large enough and at the requested tilt that could still be printed on my Prusa i3 MK3.</p> <p>I added in lots of fillets around the edges to just make it look more professional and not worry about the edges being too rough/sharp.</p> <h3> Would you change anything?</h3> <p>I'd probably make the gaps between lattice legs larger. Mounting the front and back together was ... annoying. I'm personally fine with it as is though. I prefer the added strength and I'd have to remove one of the legs to get the gaps bigger.</p> <h3> What other parts are needed to build this?</h3> <p>M5x20 screws: 4<br/> M5 nuts: 4 (nylock preferred)<br/> 1/2" dowel: 3 (whatever length you'd like for your rack)</p> <h3> Print Settings</h3> <p>First off, if you have a large enough print bed, you should be able to print both front and back at the same time. In the images you can see a screenshot of my setup in Slic3rPE, I simply rotated back piece 180. These settings are with a 0.4mm nozzle, adjust accordingly.</p> <p>Layer height: 0.2mm<br/> Perimeters: 3 (recommend at least a full 1mm thick wall for strength)<br/> Infill: 25% (could go higher but DANG these bois were heavy, they feel PLENTY solid to me)<br/> Supports: NOPE. Hashtag no support life.</p> <p>Again, print both pieces twice. Otherwise the stand is going to be ... unstable.</p> <h3> Building it</h3> <p>Once your front and back are printed, grab 4 M5x20 screws and matching nuts. I recommend nylock nuts, but regular nuts will work although they'll eventually back out probably.</p> <p>Grab a pair of needle nose pliers.</p> <p>Now, putting the front and back together is going to fun. As shown in the pictures, take one of the screws and tilt it at an angle to the back stand. Place the tip of the screw into one of the holes, and tilt it until the screw is straight. The head of the screw will be right up against the next lattice leg. Use the pliers to spin the screw until it's stable and in the screw hole securely.</p> <p>Spin it until it's only partially sticking out of the other side, a few turns. There's a picture above of where I stopped. Repeat with each screw.</p> <p>Once all 4 are in, grab the front. Use the partially sticking out bits to line things up, and get back to spinning the screws in fully.</p> <p>Once you've got that, throw your nuts on there and you're almost done.</p> <p>Do all of that twice, now you just need your dowels. Brett's local hardware store had mislabeled their dowels, so he had to whittle the ends down which it sounds like he prefers as they're very secure. However, I designed them to fit a 1/2" dowel with a light amount of glue to hold them in place. Take your pick, let me know if it's way off.</p> <h3> Print Settings</h3> <p><strong>Printer Brand:</strong> Prusa</p> <p><strong>Printer:</strong> i3 MK3</p> <p><strong>Rafts:</strong> No</p> <p><strong>Supports:</strong> No</p> <p><strong>Resolution:</strong> .2</p> <p><strong>Infill:</strong> 25%</p> <h3><strong>Filament:</strong> Hatchbox PLA Silver Post-Printing</h3> <p>I did have to sand off a bit of elephant foot-ing that happened on the edge. Check your edges as it can cause the stands to be unstable or the rack to be unstable on the stands.</p>