Espresso WDT Tool

thingiverse

This is a WDT tool I made after seeing the relatively few options out there. I had printed off this tool, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4573913 which was sort of a design inspiration. I made a different design initially, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4708412, however, I feel as though the needles were far too close, and that there was a benefit to angling the needles. For this design, I wanted eight needles in a circular array, set at a gentle angle, with a case which could contain them without bending. The idea behind the threaded case is to allow it to go in a bag for when you take your kit on the go, or if you're a barista who brings your own tools to work and you use WDT as part of your workflow (unlikely, I know). The knurling patterns for the cap and main body are the same, which is pleasing on the final part. I'm still new to knurling, so I wasn't able to quite figure out how to make the knurled case have the same sizing on the knurls. It's something I may explore further in the future, but this design is essentially complete at this time. If you don't like knurling on the case, I understand, and included a non-knurled case file. Personally, I prefer the knurled aesthetic. I printed all the parts in one go on my Prusa MK3S, 0.2mm layer height, 15% gyroid infill, with 2 perimeter walls in HTPLA+ with no supports. This should print fine in regular PLA, PETG, or ABS, though. It's not too complicated a form and needs no supports. This design supports 0.4mm printer needles & should support 0.35mm printer needles. My 0.35mm needles had a portion of the head that needed trimming, the 0.4mm needles did not. Additionally, both sizes need the actual needle section trimmed to fit in the case. This is by design, both to blunt the needles, and in order to reduce their flexibility. I recommend between 1-1.5", but the case can support needle up to 2" in length. The inside of the case fits flush to how the main body is inset; this is by design, so if your needles aren't fully trimmed flush then it will scratch the inside of the cap. This is per my use case, as I prefer to have the needles touching the cap in order to restrict their vertical movemnt. First three images in the gallery show correct orientation for printing in your slicer of choice. All parts can be printed at once if you so choose.