ESP12 Pogo Breadboard

thingiverse

This is an adapter designed for ESP-12 modules, allowing them to be programmed or developed on a breadboard. It serves as an alternative to the one described at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2147460. The previous version fits standard solderless breadboards with a central gap of 7.6mm between rows. Its width was minimized, leaving two spare holes for each ESP-12 pin connection. This arrangement is suitable for most applications. This version utilizes a divided solderless breadboard to accommodate a larger gap. The adapter has been modified to move the headers outside the ESP pogo pins, allowing up to four connection points per ESP pin. This can be advantageous in certain uses. The 3D prints enable spring pins to match the 2mm spacing on these modules. These pins mate through holes on the module and allow it to be simply pushed into place. A retaining bar may be used for a more secure fit, although this might not be necessary for quick programming. A joiner piece is also included, allowing the two parts of the solderless breadboard to be remounted as one piece. The breadboards usually have an adhesive pad at the bottom, making it easy to do so. To assemble this adapter, you will need 3D printed parts, a 400-point solderless breadboard, 16 spring pogo pins (1mm diameter, 16mm long), two 8-way single-in-line jumper posts, two M3 30mm countersunk screws and nuts, and an optional 220uF SMD decoupling capacitor. First, print the 3D pieces. Verify that the pogo pins fit into the base holes and can pass through the top plate holes. If necessary, clean these holes with a 1mm drill. Next, prepare 14 of the pogo pins by soldering a fine wire approximately 3.5mm up from the base. Use 0.2mm wire obtained from a multistrand cable. Ensure minimal solder is used to maintain the final diameter small and prevent shorts when assembling the pins. Use slightly thicker wire for the two remaining power pins, and if using the decoupling capacitor, leave tails on either side. Insert the 8-way headers into the base slot with their short sides facing up into the pin cavity side. Avoid forcing them as the side wall is deliberately kept thin. Clean up with a needle file if needed. Insert the pins one at a time into the blind holes in the base and solder their tails onto the header pins. Solder in the decoupling capacitor, if used. Double-check continuity before carefully adding epoxy resin around the header plugs to secure them in place and solidify with narrow sidewalls. It's a good idea to cover the legs underneath with tape to prevent any resin from getting on them. Position the pin alignment 3D part over the pins and push it down, using tweezers to align each pin into its hole as required. Insert countersunk screws through both parts and secure them with nuts. Cut the breadboard in half along the middle plastic. This will not expose any connections. Use a fine saw like a junior hacksaw for this task. It's a good idea to tape over the holes first. Clean up the center with a file. Insert the made-up pogo module between the two halves to get the spacing right. Peel off the adhesive layers and stick it to the joiner.