Endrer 3/3 Pro external electronics enclosure à la CR-10

thingiverse

** FUSION360 and STEP Sources are included **** I have my printer into an enclosure and, to save the electronics from excessive heat, I've designed this model to enclose all the electronics at a singe location. These were my requirements: - Sturdy connection with little chances to have an accidental disconnect or a solder to fail; - Ability to disconnect the wires from the enclosure. I use the exact same enclose to perform my hotted bench repairs : I simply disconnect the enclosure from the printer and connect it to my bench lab to heat up hotted, change nozzles, etc. - Must not let one connect a cable in the wrong place; - Be able to include in the enclosure all the electronics, that is : Mainboard (SKR Mini e3 v.1.2, same footprint as the stock mainboard), Mosfet, Raspberry Pi 4, LCD (mine is a BigTreeTech TFT 5.3 e3, it is a dropping replacement of the stock LCD), a couple of step-down converters, silent fans (12v noctua), a switch to control the leds as well as a relay to control the leds wirelessly. - Easy access to the mainboard for maintenance (Is suffice to unscrew the Enclosure_Bottom from the main body and have total access to the electronics). - Easy access to SD card to easily flash the firmware (I never print from SD card). For the connectors, I've settled on GX avaiator connectors, the same used on the Creality CR-10 as they seemed to perfectly fit the bill. Here is a BOM to perform this project (please note that I am giving here my choice of connectors and how I assembled the wires on each connector, you can have your own distribution): - Printed parts : (4) parts - Enclosure Body, Enclosure LCD (with or without a hole for the switch), Enclosure bottom and PS Cover. Connectors: One of each: GX20-14, GX20-12, GX20-4, GX16-10, GX16-6 - 2X 40x10 fans. If you intend to use 12V noctua silent fans, then you need one buck converter to get 12V from your 24V PSU output. - One buck converter if you intend to power the Rpi from your PSU (24v to 5V, 3A) - Wires (AWG22): Lengths of AWG22 wires of various colours to connect the thermistors, fans, steppers, limit switches, BL-touch and (eventually) filament runout sensor. - Wires (AWG12): two lengths to connect the bed heater; - Wires (AWG16): two lengths to connect the hot end; - Heat shrink tubing to assemble all the wires , per connector. - Metric screws: 4x M4x12 and a set of M3 screws (M3x8, M3x10 and M3x12) - A micro-SD Card extension. This is the one I've used: https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/Micro-dextension-adaptateur-flexible-voiture/dp/B06XY5QB2Z/ref=sr_1_12?__mk_fr_CA=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=3I2TNOHNRUS58&keywords=micro+card+extension&qid=1645234510&sprefix=micro+card+extension%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-12 - OPTIONAL: A mosfet board This is the one I've used https://www.amazon.ca/VANTSKITT-Printer-Heated-Module-Upgrade/dp/B0755V2ND4/ref=asc_df_B0755V2ND4/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292953472052&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18035421876955589044&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061021&hvtargid=pla-572131841183&th=1 Printing this enclosure should be pretty straight forward, with little to no support needed. Splicing and soldering is the most intensive and time consuming job. Soldering is in two parts: soldering wires to female GX connectors, and soldering wires to the mal counterparts. On GX connectors, the pin IDs are printed on the plastic part of the connector, do not mix-up wires! When soldering wires to the male part, give it the length you want, knowing that it starts from were the stock mainboard is located. You will keep the stock main board enclosure to tuck spliced wires in. I encourage you to use a color code and make sur not to mix your wires (you can use stickers or electrical tape to group them and mark on them with a sharpie). Eg. Each motor has four wires, use one color for each, take the JST connector, orient it the way you want and decide which wire should be, with color and take note (both the orientation and the colours). You'll need your notes when it'll be time to asolder wires on the Female GX connector. NOTE: If you cut the plugs to splice the wires, leave enough length if you want to reuse them on the female connectors (that attach to mainboard in its new location). The females GX connectors are the ones you'll attach to the Enclosure_Bottom plastic part. Be generous on wires and you will cut them to length when attaching them. Once soldered and once you have attached the mainboard to Enclosure_Bottom, you can start attaching the wires.. You might need to crimp JST plugs, or you can repurpose the ones that you cut from existing wires. The small openings on the enclosure can be used for cable management (don't use all of them, their main intention was for ventilation). IMPORTANT: This is a very tedious job and you may damage your electronics (or worse, start a fire!) if you do not splice correctly your wires. Proceed with caution and take your time.