Ender3 V2 Direct Drive, ORIG. PRINT AREA!

thingiverse

<a href="https://ibb.co/7JKJFTJ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/7JKJFTJ/In-Use.jpg" alt="In-Use" border="0"></a> <font size="3">There are several Direct Drive mods available, but I wasn't satisfied with any of them. So I made one that <b>preserves the full original print area</b>. Even the full height can be preserved, but this would require a little thought in the cable routing and the filament spool holder. <font size="3">Print each part in the orientation they are shown in the individual photos! And get your supports in order first, the models need a relatively precise and flat supported surfaces. <font size="3">The modification uses many parts from the original setup, but the PTFE tube must be cut, making this a non-reversable mod (unless you have a spare tube). <font size="3">The photos in this guide can be clicked to full size. <font size="3">If you really like this mod, I am extremely grateful even for the tiniest of <a href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=MXMQZGK63N3TY"> donations!</a> All cool if that's not your style though. <a href="https://ibb.co/JHR5J90"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JHR5J90/Required-also.jpg" alt="Required-also" border="0"></a> <font size="3">You also need 4 additional screws: - M4 x 16 mm counter-sunk / flat top - 2x M3 x 20 mm pan/round head - M3 x 10 mm pan/round head <b>And:</b> - M4 locking nut - Stepper motor extension cable (can temporarily print without the extension) <br> <h1>ASSEMBLY</h1> - Remove your currently installed filament, if any, and detach the PTFE tube from the extruder. - Remove the extruder motor. Take note where each screw used to be. - Remove the hot end's fan cage with the single screw between the wheels. - Remove the hot end. <a href="https://ibb.co/7bG21jy"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/7bG21jy/Frame.jpg" alt="Frame" border="0"></a> <h2>FRAME</h2> - Remove the top two wheels from the X-axis sledge. - Position the printed Frame in place and install the bolts and wheels back on through the Frame. The bolts should be just barely long enough. Make them taut. - Place the extruder on the Frame with the connector upwards, and use one of the original pan head screws and a printed washer to mount it from the top left hole. Leave the screw loose. <a href="https://ibb.co/f1LVG4s"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/f1LVG4s/Front.jpg" alt="Front" border="0"></a> <h2>FRONT</h2> - Install the original spring tension screw assembly from the original extruder. Check the photos for orientation. - Mount the Front on the Frame using the original hot end mounting screws. The screws go in the two bottom holes of the extruder motor. Leave the screws loose. <a href="https://ibb.co/ssbWT4v"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/ssbWT4v/Lever.jpg" alt="Lever" border="0"></a> <h2>LEVER</h2> - Install the original filament roller in the back side indent of the printed Lever with a M4 x 16mm countersunk screw. Secure the screw with the locking nut. Make sure the roller spins freely. - Use the mounting screw and the small bracket it sits in from the original lever. While holding the spring in it's place, install the Lever on the Frame through a printed washer. Leave the screw loose. - Make sure the extruder motor sits all the way in it's slot, and tighten the four motor screws little by little. - Using the smallest 1.5mm allen wrench provided with the printer, reposition the extruder gear to align with the wheel on the Lever and not to touch the printed Frame. - Tighten the Lever's spring so that the filament wheel sits semi-taut against the gear. <a href="https://ibb.co/tBKPYw1"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/tBKPYw1/Installed.jpg" alt="Installed" border="0"></a> <h2>HOT END</h2> - Position the hot end in it's place, and mark up the tube 2mm below where it reaches the top of the Front part. - Cut the tube straight at the marked spot. Make sure to get a clean and flat cut! A Bowden tube cutting tool is recommended but not necessary. - Position the remaining tube that sits in the hot end into the hole at the bottom of the Front part. - Push the hot end up as high as it gets. Measure how far below the mounting holes the hot end remains (mid hole to mid hole). - Further cut the PTFE tube that sits in the hot end for the amount you just measured. - Install the hot end in place using the new M3 x 20mm screws. Hold the hot end up straight while you screw it in quite taut. - Install the fan cage in place using the new M3 x 10mm pan head screw from behind. <a href="https://ibb.co/KjK3Xx9"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/KjK3Xx9/Bracket.jpg" alt="Bracket" border="0"></a> <h2>FILAMENT BRACKET</h2> - Remove the PTFE tube socket from the original extruder bracket and install it on the printed Filament Bracket (on the opposite side to the square bracket). - Cut an approximately 3" long piece out of the remaining PTFE tube, and push it all the way in the tube socket. - Snap the printed Filament Bracket in place on top of the Frame. <font size="3">Done! Besides leveling the bed there's only one thing to do: <h2><b>REVERSE THE EXTRUDER'S DIRECTION FROM THE PRINTER SETTINGS!!!</b></h2> <font size="3">If the original firmware doesn't support this, <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1"> install <b>Mriscoc</b>'s magnificent Marlin firmware! </a> ========================================