Ender max filament guides (4 versions)

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Ender 3 max filament sensor guides. (now 4 versions available) Version one is the Bowden coupler version. Version 2 is the cone opening (no bowden required) version. Both can store up to 3 spare nozzles and a P4 M10 coupler. EDIT:- I added a no frills cone version to the set. This third option has no nozzle/coupler storage. It uses the simple cone alignment option and has a hole added so the sensor LED is not obstructed from view. I don't have a photo of a completed part as it is basically the base form of the other two so is dimensionally identical. I have also uploaded a revised version of the bowden type (version 1) with a slightly lower nozzle rail. This has the fixed Led visibility but ONLY if you leave one nozzle port clear. So if you want to use a bowden tube 'and' have the filament sensor led visible, use the 'NEW bowden with led visible' file. Version 1 blocks the visibility of the filament sensor led (You can tell how much I look at that as it never entered ny head while designing these at the start). Version 2 however came later and was tailored to deal with that issue. You can either leave the second nozzle aperture open for the best illumination. Or alternatively you can fill all 3 slots and still have some visibilty of the LED through an opening by the side of the second nozzle. I prefer to leave the 2nd nozzle out in practice as it is much brighter than the glimmer from the side slot. I printed both a bowden and cone version of the full storage versions without supports and had no issues with either. When correctly fitted, both are deadly accurate at getting filament into the filament sensor with the minimum of effort. Before tightening the guide down, insert a piece of filament through the guide and the sensor. Now adjust the guide and sensor so that there is little or no resistance when sliding the filament back and forth. As soon as you are happy everything is running free, then bolt up the filament sensor. Do a last check to make sure the filament is still freely moving. The vertical height of the feed is set perfectly. The design of this unit is such that the holes in the base allow some wiggle room left and right to account for manufacturing tolerances (I am thinking more of those by creality than us here). It isnt the screw holding down the guide, it is the base of the filament sensor when it is tightened in place. whether you choose the cone feed versions or the coupler versions, they will align perfectly with the filament feed hole as long as you take a few moments to make sure alignment is good (it should be as near perfect as makes no difference). There is sufficient play designed into the lower holes of the guide to allow for any lateral corrections needed. Note:- I have a couple of couplers that are different widths in the threads, negligible but slightly different tolerances. For that reason I left the coupler storage and guide hole of the bowden version without threads cut in them. It should be a very easy task to screw in an m10 coupler to these as the hole starts mildly tapered and is sized for the purpose of having a coupler cut its own thread when first used. If your coupler feels too tight when cutting a thread, remove it and ream the hole to make life easier. The coupler is only acting as a guide, it is not essential to have it as well fitted as when between an extruder and hotend as there are no pressure issues involved, filament will just be pulled through so don't risk breaking the print trying for the ultimate thread perfection. As long as it is kept in line it is more than good enough. When first fitting to cut a thread, do a half turn in then come back a quarter and repeat until you have it fully seated. The exit hole is larger than it needed to be for use, but I did it this way so if you need to widen the hole on the cone version you can get to it with a suitable tool from behind rather than through the cone itself (the hole is set for 2mm, but there is every chance your printer may do it undersized at that kind of tolerance level). If your filament slides through smoothly you don't have to do anything. You do not want the hole too large or it will cause alignment issues and defeat the purpose of having a guide. If you have one, just run a 2mm drill bit through the hole and it will be exactly as designed. I have printed and used Bowden and cone versions and they both worked flawlessly.