Ender 6 Lightweight Gantry System - Biqu H2

thingiverse

I cannot recommend this modification to anyone new to 3D printing but it is pretty straightforward for anyone fairly familiar with their printer. In other words, this should not be your first venture into modding your printer and I will not be responsible for you wrecking your own printer.With that out of the way, let's get into it.You will need to print:1 - XLinearRailCarrier (print oriented standing on end with flattest side down)2 - XLinearRailCarrierCap (print oriented standing on end, use brim if you think your supports don't go out wide enough)2 - XLinearRailCarrierBeltClamp2 - XLinearRailGantrySupport (1 will have to be mirrored on the Y axis, recommend printing with rod holes down)4 - XLinearRailIdlerSpacers (recommend using a brim for these, material type is not important, they are not load-bearing)1(2 recommended) - XLinearRailRodDrillJigThe orientations recommended have the absolutely necessary dimensional accuracies in mind. The files have been uploaded in the recommended orientations. It will be a support-heavy print but it will save you from fitment/alignment issues.You will need an assortment of M3 hardware for assembly, but mostly 6mm length screws are used with the exception of 4 - 8mm long screws for the extruder (6mm could possibly work), 2 - 30mm long screws (one for each carriage support), and I believe they were 20mm screws for the fan end. The jig used assumes you are using a 420mm long, 10mm diameter carbon rod as I did. You will also need to buy polymer linear bearings(x4, LM10UU) and 2 - 350mm MGN12 linear rails. To assemble the carrier, the only thing not immediately obvious would be to put the wiring for the extruder motor as well as the X axis endstop through the hole in the upright that will hold all your wiring. The endstop will need to be the first thing mounted and screwed in from the bottom using the factory hardware. Everything else for the carrier should be easy to figure out. Lots of M3 nuts used here because I printed this in ABS and screwing directly into it seemed too "mushy." It's not too important what length screw is used on most parts but the bottom screws for the caps and all screws except the bottom ones for the belt clamps (bottom ones, length doesn't matter) will need to be 6mm in length to avoid contact with the extruder. I think I used 8mm long screws to mount the H2, but 6mm will probably also work. Use a high heat tolerant filament as the extruder motor gets pretty hot. Fitment of the bearings is snug so make sure all support interface material is removed.The gantry support uses all the factory bolts, nuts, and idlers. The spacers you printed will replace those from factory. You could file down the factory ones to work or source some aluminum tube or brake lines to stand in. As long as they are the same length as the spacers in the file, whatever you use should work just fine. They don't really take on any load. It is important to note the roller height. One is obviously higher than the other. To align the belt path with their intended attachment points, the gantry supports will need to have the rollers to the rear of the housing but roller height should still mimic that of the factory part. THIS PART WILL NEED TO BE MOUNTED TO THE LINEAR RAIL BLOCK BEFORE ASSEMBLY. Failure to do so will have one mounting screw blocked by roller hardware. Use 3x6mm screws and 1x30mm screw. I thought about making all hardware the same, but I felt keeping the one longer screw could help if people have issues with layer adhesion. Let me know in the comments what you think. I might just make a second version like that at some point either way.Next, you'll need to use the drill jig to drill your holes into the carbon rods. Again, this jig assumes you're using a 420mm rod. This length is available on Amazon or can be cut from a longer rod. The hole in the rod will use a 4mmX20mm screw and 4mmx30mm on the other through the gantry support to stiffen everything up and distribute the load of fast direction changes. DO NOT PUT THE SCREWS IN UNTIL THE GANTRY SYSTEM IS LOWERED IN PLACE. The rods need to be able to move in and out of the supports to make room for the t-nuts used to mount your rails.Everything will need to be assembled before lowering the gantry system's linear rails to mount to the bottom slot of the 4020 rails using your favorite alignment tool. Once in place, now you may insert the screws through the supports and rods and tighten it down.This is where you could be done. The option is there to change your Y endstop location to 265 to gain some space or to compensate for the print space being a little off center from the build plate by leaving printable build space at 260x260. No change is necessary for X.Please ask if you have any questions. This is my first time doing any sort of write-up and my first file design of this complexity.