Ender 5 V-Slot Rail Enclosure Corner

thingiverse

ABS, PETG, Kevlar, Adamantium...an open bed exposed to the air is fine for printing PLA, but other substances require a more controlled cooling; something only a closed and warm cabinet can provide. Joesainz's Ender 5 Enclosure Corner is a brilliant design, but if you peruse the videos and threads pertaining to Ender Cabinetry you will find acrylic, and even single pane glass doesn't hold quite enough heat in a cabinet to prevent certain filaments from splitting layers as they cool. I have a theory about this...actually, it's not my theory, it's the second law of thermodynamics: Heat transfers from an object of a higher temperature to that of a lower temperature. In our case, the glass or acrylic have nearly half of their surfaces facing the cooler air outside of the cabinet, so any heat gained on the inner surface is transferred through the Solid surfaces and dissipates outside the cabinet...conduction. ///[End of physics lesson] The challenge is to find a material better suited for holding heat in. This, however, is a discussion for another Thingy. What I will say is the v-slot 2020 rail version of this enclosure corner is much more versatile. I replaced every surface with cleaner cuts, turned it to 45 and 45 degrees so it prints on an Ender 5 bed. and does so without supports (because I HATE supports). There is one corner where an overhanging join of an out rail fails without supports, but it is minuscule and could honestly have been cut off at a 45-degree angle anyway. the print continues flawlessly after that tiny hiccup at the midway point and cleans up nicely with no more than a pair of sharp tweezers. I also moved the outer post inside to match the edge of the 2040 Rail below it. I did this for two reasons. 1. You don't need all that extra upper space in the cabinet. It just creates more unused dead air that needs to be heated, and 2. If you're putting anything on top of it (like I am with my Ender Tower Project) it just feels better to have the weight directly over the existing metal rails. I centered the fan holes but left them in place (even though I'll probably not use them as I want to keep as much heat in the cabinet as possible) so that one corner model can sit the same on all four corners, regardless of orientation. The design is also isometric, so, if you want to import it, zero out the 45/45 degree print orientation, and shorten or elongate anything, you can. You will need four M4 screws and T nuts to mount it. I printed in PLA because, well, because I didn't have an enclosure to properly heat ABS, Kevlar, or Adamantium for the frame of my dreams. Maybe I'll re-print it all once it's up and running properly.