Ender 5 Control Box Remix II

thingiverse

REVISED 2020- 1-11 Fixed problem with mounting of Raspberry Pi 4 Mean Well top is thicker ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Summary - Revised 2020/10/11 The complete set of parts allows for an Ezboard and a Raspberry Pi and the original Ender 5 power supply to be mounted on the back of the printer. I modified the original mount for a Raspberry Pi 4b. The original Raspberry 3 mount is still included. The power supply enclosure is all new, much simpler to print, the top attaches with three M3 bolts _____________________________________________________________________ I was frustrated with the lack of any cable management on the Ender 5. I searched for a better solution and found the Ender 5 Control Box Bracket by rgrugan. I printed these out and mounted them and they worked. I still had the problem of wanting to include my Raspberry pi and EZABL control box inside the original enclosure. I realized that there was not room, and I would be cutting holes in the metal. Decided to scrap the enclosure and start from scratch. Here is what I came up with. A 1/4 hardboard panel ( the same material that pegboard is made of), as the mount for my mods, spray paint and it looks good. I printed the mounts for the mainboard and raspberry pi, the power supply mods. Arranged everything, marked and drilled holes for mounting. I found it took a couple of trys to get the arrangement i was happy with. (get plenty of hardboard -its cheap) Many of my cables were now much too long. I really didn't want to modify them, instead found a set to modify without destroying the originals, Creality 3D Printer X Y Z Axis Stepper Motor and Limited Switch Endstop Cable for Cr-10 CR-10S CR-10 Mini (Pack of 3) on Amazon for $13. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T245QVF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 After trial and error, I found the best way to modfy the cables it to get a set of JNC connectors,IZOKEE 460pcs JST Connector Kit $10 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0791DJMW9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also purchased the correct crimper for these terminals, IWISS SN-01BM Ratchet Crimper . Amazon $23 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ARWWFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 As you can tell by now, I'm a little crazy about cable management.. I cut the connectors off of the mainboard side, the 4 pin motor connectors and the 2 pin end stops. I used a continuity checker to check the pinout of each cable. I also sleeved the cables after cutting to length using using PET Expandable Braided Sleeving and heat shrink. The last big challenge was the control panel. Amazon had the answer, new connectors to make your own cable $10. Pro 50-Pack 2X5 10P 2.54mm Dual Rows https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DE5CTMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Now for Ribbon Cable - 10 Wire (15ft), $7. https://www.amazon.com/Ribbon-Cable-10-Wire-15ft/dp/B007R9SQQM/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1FK3H65O9DXOM&keywords=ribbon+cable&qid=1570744567&s=electronics&sprefix=ribbon%2Celectronics%2C184&sr=1-5 I know this is probably more than a normal person would do, but it iis easier than building and modifying cars and less expensive. The cable mods could be skipped, and simply bundle the extra cable in the back of the mount. It is suprizing how much the cable management improves with moving the electroincss and having new access to the wiring.