Ender 3v2 external enclosure PSU and mainboard

thingiverse

Thanks to roblpetty for great source design. I took some of his advice and made the following changes... - moved the mainboard mounts slightly higher and towards the rear for better access. - filled in the top two lid holes - rounded off the corners in the cable port. I also made my own changes as follows... - Added front panel mounts for micro-usb port and full-size SDcard reader. - Added M3 hex nut recesses for the four side Lid bolts. - Enlarged the rear panel bolt holes so they better fit M3 bolts. By moving the mainboard higher and towards the rear, it's probably less likely to accommodate a raspberryPi, but I don't use octoprint and to be honest, I don't think there was much room for a Pi in there anyway. Printing tip - By editing my marlin firmware, I increased the buildplate size to 225mm in the X axis (up from 220mm). This allowed me to squeeze in a 6-line brim around the box. This thing likes to lift at the corners during printing! (print took 22hrs at base speed of 50mm/s). Be aware, this is not a quick job. I bought a cable extension kit for a CR10 and even though some of the connections were plug-n-play, there were still some 30 soldering connections/heatshrinkings to make. Also, the cable kit doesn't include cabling for accessories like filament run-out sensor, led lighting, ABL. So you may need to buy extra cables to suit your setup. This project took me a whole day, not including the print time. But I'm really happy with the end result, and I can now print ABS without cooking my electronics. To mount the micro-usb port, you will need 2 x M3 6mm countersunk. The SD reader is press-fit. Final tip - for some silly reason, Creality wired the mainboard fan into the same PWM controller as the parts-cooling fan. So if the parts fan is not running (for example when you're printing ABS), the mainboard fan isn't running either. So wire the mainboard fan into the hot-end fan connections, which is always on.