Ender 3 Zinus Table Enclosure

thingiverse

A popular enclosure for the Ender 3 and similar printers is made using the Ikea Lack table, but I opted for the Zinus Dane table with some modifications due to its smaller footprint, increased robustness, and sleeker design. To get started, you'll need: * A power drill and assorted drill bits * The Zinus Dane table (20 inch square side) * Magnets from Lowes or a similar store, sized to fit 2x [0.9"x0.22"x0.22"] ceramic magnets per latch * Two 3/32" thick plexiglass sheets (18.8" by 18.5" for the sides and 18.8" by 19.2" for the front/back) * An Ender 3 or similarly sized printer, of course To accommodate the printer's bottom shelf on this table, I drilled holes in the legs approximately at the crossbar connecting the two side legs, positioning it about ~0.25" off the ground when assembled. I removed the filament mount from the top of the printer and remounted it to the top of the table, then drilled a 1/4" hole in line with where the filament would normally be coming down. I plan to replace the stock filament mount with this customizable one that has bearings integrated and a stand option made by HugoHuge: You can configure the mounts and magnetic latches however you prefer, but I evenly spaced my pieces. I installed 2 magnetic latches on each side of the doors (one at the front and back of the table) and another at the top of each door. Additionally, I added a magnetic latch at the top of each side panel. To attach the "hinge.stl" and "magnetLatch.stl" to the plexiglass, use the piece itself to position the holes that need to be drilled out, then press the "hingeLock.stl" through the piece and the plexi to hold them together. Be cautious when drilling through the plexiglass as it can shatter if too much pressure is applied or the drill speed is too slow. If you don't want to deal with drilling multiple holes, you could get by with simply gluing all of the pieces to the plexiglass. Finally, add some 1/4" window insulation around the edges to fully seal the inside space of the printer. I added black sticky-backed insulation around all sides that matches nicely with the table's aesthetic. ***Note: I positioned the magnetically latched doors in the direction of the Y-axis because the bed cable guide currently causes the cables to protrude too far out the back and possibly bump against the back door. Alternatively, if I shift the printer forward slightly, then the fully extended Y-axis bumps open the front door. This allows the doors to open and close easily without interfering with prints until I create an enhanced bed cable guide to reduce cable protrusion.