Ender 3 XZ housing + Endstop

Ender 3 XZ housing + Endstop

thingiverse

Ender 3 XZ Housing + Endstop An adjustable Z limit Endstop is a really good mod for this printer. I guarantee it. # Update: Was going for a slightly different design at first, so the base and arm was chunkier at 10mm. Uploaded a slimmer arm version at 4mm that should use less plastic/faster print. Not tested. If you do print it, let me know how it works out. # Update - README BEFORE PRINTING: Seems to be some length issues, so I'm uploading a few more shorter lengths. The original arm length is 41.2mm. That works for me as I'm using 4mm glass, and not tensioning the springs very tightly, making it higher still. Plus locknuts at the base. First, print the Z switch holder. Measure the Z distance from the original housing to your Z switch on the holder. Then subtract 5mm to give it a little more room. Note, I foresee an issue with the bolt touching the X limit switch if your bolt is too long and the arm is too short, with the slimarm version. ____ I originally wanted to use this [CR-10 Adjustable Endstop](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2727769/files) for my Ender 3. Issues: * It didn't fit. * I'm using dampers so I need a diagonal screw holders * The stock screws actually aren't long enough. So I designed this. What it aims to achieve: * Shift the X axis switch right 1mm * Make the screw holders shorter to allow use of stock screws. * Hold an adjustable Z endstop. What you need: #### * This XZ Housing * The Z switch holder from the link above. * A M4 socket 20-30mm. (Higher gives you more leeway) * A M4 locknut. * A small M4 socket and T-nut that came with your Ender 3 Kit (for the holder) If you can find a shorter M4 socket, that would be best. * A few small washers that fit the M4 for the Z switch holder. The sockets that came with the printer are slightly too long. Needs some padding. Could be washers, a printed piece. I just used another T-nut on the outside to buffer it. You should move your M4 socket up and down the lock nut a few times before you install to help loosen it. I have a like-hate relationship with lock nuts. They tend to hold the threads TOO tight. I recommend installing the bolt from the top as in the picture. It's just easier to adjust that way. ______________ You should print the smalltube test to see if your printer is calibrated for printing small features. I had some issues with the X limit switch screw holes since my Ideamaker software's default filament flowrate was 94%, had to bump it to 100%.

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