Ender 3 V2 Halo Light Switch Box

prusaprinters

I designed a switch enclosure box for my halo led strip holder, it might seem an over-engineering job for a simple problem, but it works for me. (:Since I am no good at explaining thingies I added some photos.I am no expert on electronics, so I don't want to add a "how to connect the cable to the 24v ender 3 power supply and ruin your printer" section.I just connect the + - cables to the output and it magically works..I added this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhKWMWHNlK8 circuit to the output of the lm2596 (set for 12-13volts), it limits the voltage via a mosfet and gives a nice effect for the switch.And also the most important part for me is; nothing gets hot and melts the precious PLAs!used https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2676595/files cable clip for the cable management, see the photos..I added a clipper holder as an extra because why not?!Update 02.04.2023Updated the box to v3.0 for the cable management through the v-slot ..Update 01.20.2023Updated the box to v2.0 for a futureproof design..Keeping the old v1.2 version in the zip file for the reference..Update 11.07.2022Added some tips about the leds below the description..Update 12.02.2021I updated the switch box with an addon, thus you can update the old design without printing it again.Just download & print the halo_switch_addon.stl file. Prepare your mini switch, put it in and super glue the addon to the base part only!!see the updated images.Update 12.01.2021It turned out that I designed the mini switch part for a non-standart mini switch :/The width and the length is the same, but unfortunately the depth and the pin size is smaller with mine. It is normal for me, as a hoarder I have parts dated before 15 years @_@I ordered some new stock mini 2p switches and will try to update the 3d prints for the switch part.You can modify the standart mini switch to fit the gap in the 3d print.Make sure the pins are isolated from the alumunium profile of the printer.Sorry for the inconvenience..Some tips;If you are not experienced enough at electronics, you don't have to add the soft on/off circuit, mosfets might not be beginner friendly components to handle. Just use the regulator and a beforehand mini switch..The led strips used here are 12volts, but you don't have to set the output of the regulator to exact 12volts, set the voltage a lower level in order to keep the leds cool. Just find the sweet spot where the light is bright enough and the leds are not heating.There are many different 12v led strips out there with all different efficiencies, and most of them are not good at it, which means heat for the leds. Lowering the voltage output of the regulator is the >easiest< way to handle the issue.If you decide to make the soft on/off circuit, make sure trying the circuit on a breadboard first, and see if it is working fine and cool.Tutorials might give you some values for resistors and capacitors, but from my experience, there might be differences for example with the mosfets, and there are lots of fake components out there, even if you buy your components from a respectable seller, the tutorial owner might not be so lucky, so try the circuit first on a breadboard, find the right values and then add it to your printer setup.Cheers!Print SettingsPrinter Brand:CrealityPrinter: Ender 3Rafts:NoSupports: YesResolution:0,2Infill: 15Filament: Porima PLA black Notes: for cura use support for halo_led2_base.stl and halo_led2_mid.stl "touching buildplate" !!   Category: 3D Printer Accessories