ender 3 tried and true design fixes based on science / common sense

thingiverse

CREDIT GOES TO THE LINKS POSTED HERE NOT ME! credit me if you like for testing /researching everything listed otherwise anything i post in the stl section. all these devs listed have done amazing work things fit their clean and cosmetically nice and lots of effort has gone into making things possible. everyone deserves credit and should get it :) my works mostly in the documentation and video evidence finding these mods including print time and filament usage. 2040 profile Cartesian printer mods and developers stl and link repo. ender 3 tried and true design fixes based on science / common sense FOR ANY OF THIS TO WORK https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bFYH0X3qjk this is the number 1 alignment and assembly of everything is 90 percent of print quality last 10 will be slicer / material. every problem ive had / randomly had is usually hardware IF slicer has been thoroughly reviewed for mistakes / missclicks, filament diamater checked for deviation. then its time to inspect the machine. most problems will have to do with hotends clogging or becoming loose otherwise cheap plastic extruders. bmg or titan are reliable. do the less invasive checks before anything to avoid disassembly / alignment problems after. science equipment is temperamental with calibration. this video covers these symptoms skewed prints (unsquare frame) bed leveling problems (slop in x bed tensioners more on one side ) (zbinding visable uneven layer lines or worse) CREALITY STOCK HOTEND - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzRAVkXjw3I how to assemble how it works and where problems are coming from wen its now and why. note i don't recommend plastic ever in a hotend.. why random power outage and it melts as the heat from the block ends up in the heatsink. its also easy to forget about and spend time looking for problems in the wrong areas. retraction may work properly intermittently then not wen it melts. PERMANENT BELT ALIGNMENT AND RUBBING FIX. allows high travel speeds less artifact and faster print speeds. no rubbing in the corners. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3537042 -x belt fix requirement 16t pulley 3m bore https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3668847 x tensioner / other half 16t pulley 3m bore HIGH SPEED PRINTING NOISE FIX / resonance not required but help especially for neighbors to get rid of the bass thump though walls. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3914798 STABLE GANTRY SPACERS. prevent screws from angling due to loose tolerances in the mounts /very slightly twisted vlot wheels. otherwise off measurement spacers(slightly to long or short major source of alignment problems or shifts) (stl section) most of the wheels do not have a support plate on both sides this is to aid stability. they also aid in annual alignment the loose tolerances in the drill holes make it harder to center the wheels to the holes. PSU SUPPORT BLOCKS use 2 so the psu is not hanging creating undesirable weight on the z axis its held on by 4 screws or 2 per side its already not that stable also not problematic with the psu off the frame with dualz. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3388128 OPTIONAL FOR FOR PSU MOUNTED BASE OF THE PRITNER OR DUALZ NEEDS LONGER FEET WORKS WITH DAMPER FEET. https://properprinting.pro/product/ender-3-low-profile-power-supply-mod/ COOLING stock is fine for slower speeds ducts involving a 4010 wont be a upgrade its fine where it is being a weak velocity fan travel ducks result in diminished flow otherwise marginal results. 5015 is the upgrade and saves time and filament its simply stronger and makes a visible difference. mostly pla results will improve / bridging. petg and similar need less cooling. large things will usually need less cooling or multi print so the 4010 isn't bad this is a depends what your doing upgrade or fix -debatable. Extruder-its cheap .. if and wen you have to replace bmg or e3d titan why? they both were designed to fix everything wrong with the clamp design. the gears are hobbed to match the filament shape and theirs 2 griping both sides vs a smooth pulley. they also have a gear box and massive torque they allow lower print temps and even extrusion/ stable flow singe random under extruded lines on otherwise perfect prints are a thing of the past. last they are easy to control tension on the filament tpu needs more then pla for example. ITEM UPGRADE/PURCHASE silicone bed spacers why? the bed is on springs at fast speeds it begins to rattle yellows are not sufficiently stable. watching closely bed bounce is observable a slomotion camera would display it flying forward and backward as well. improve y jerk limits as well possibly some vibration dampening. notes requires a decently flat bed without abl and perfectly square and level x gantry they are only slightly adjustable. abl you want the bed leveled and locked in place springs an't of use their. -ultimately optional slow speeds the bed is stable enough. tested with 3k acceleration 20 jerk minimal issues less ghosting. bowden - capricorn wen the stock eventually wears out or becomes to short. if you dont really print pla go all metal to avoid replacing tubes which starts to add up financially using pet or abs. important all metal is less optimal for pla it will work fine if you have a good perfectly smooth no drill marks inside. use e3d breaks for a reference to what it should look like or microswiss otherwise 3d passion. what makes pla problematic / tricky with all metal is it requires certain print speeds it cant be to slow or the heat wicks up the filament and causes a form of heat creep if it expands to much you get a jam which is hard to clean out. otherwise the heatsink fan can be a issue with dust and pla. ptfe throats have the pro of extra insulation and self lubrication with pla which is more optimal against jams and heat creep. in conclusion both hotends have their pros and cons depends what you are doing. all metal is great universal hotend but best for high temp materials. ptfe is great for pla and silk pla - petg cons bowden nozzle gap note all metal has that issue as well it just doesn't have a tube being pulled by a extruder the throat can still become loose scraping into prints overtime etc. as this page says this is a work in progress excuse any typos or grammatical errors consider it a draft many more docs to come. note this is a mod dedicated forum for those finding this page generally browsing hopfully this is of use to you those that feel the ender completely stock that is fine. but the design can be improved no comments necessary 3d printers should always be improving is our philosophy as moders.