Ender 3 Pro - IKEA Lack table enclosure - refined hinges, refined side panel system

thingiverse

Lack enclosure. Below are the parts I modified and what I did: * Hinges - to enable fully-open doors, I offset the hinge and the piece it snaps onto. The doors open all the way. I added a thin bottom to the hinge, to line up the plexiglass better, and made them bigger and put screw holes in them - I prefer mechanical connections to glue. Because they're offset, you'll need to print 2 of each - the top right one is the same as the lower left one. Oh, and I inset the hinges so the plexiglass doors are simple rectangles. * Top corners with fixed plexiglass - I replaced the slot with a peg and because of it I had to make the triangle bigger. Then I drilled 1/2 inch holes in the plexiglass, so they can slide in and out easily, but I can still lift the whole upper assembly. They work well. * All corners - I modified the geometry slightly to simplify. I think this looks cleaner. I also made the area for the leg slightly bigger - I think the legs look cleaner fitting into the base. * All upper corners - I added a hole to accept standard dowel pegs to make a better connection to the leg. This is the weak point some people have brought up in comments. I then drilled a hole in the top of the leg to accommodate the peg. But I actually think the table is strong enough without it. * Top right corner - I added a button from Amazon(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JH9DKLQ) for $10. It works great. * Door Handles - I merged the 2 handle/magnet pieces for the door. This makes it easier to line up looks cleaner. I DID glue this part, though I'm not loving the glue... Note: I bought the magnets posted someplace here, but the manufacturer sent the wrong size and then said they can't control the size exactly. So I returned them and got these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/182793392856 * cable guide - I made this bigger so I could fit the power cable through it. I cut second lack table down for the legs. I was able to use one of the leftover leg parts for a camera stand inside the enclosure. Works well, actually. I colored the bottom edge of the legs with a sharpie - otherwise you see an edge of cork. Power extender cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082X73J2J LED Lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHLIFO8 The plexiglass pieces: 3x - 17.5" x 18.75" - sides and back 2x - 8.675" x 18.75" - doors I'm not sure how consistent the Lack tables are in different regions, though. You might want to print the corners, then double check that the openings are correct. I held the plex up to the printed corners and marked where to drill the holes with a sharpie. The hole are 1/2" and I used a plexiglass drill bit to cut them. You need to hold the plex to the top of the opening when you mark the holes - it slots in, then lowers to lock in place. This does leave a 1/8" gap at the top. It holds the heat in well, though. Printed on Ender 3 pro with PETG.