Ender 3 Mini satsana - Radial nozzle FanDuct Edition

thingiverse

Long story short ====================   *Before all, I want to credit @Filboyt, @Elzariant and @Kenopy, for their creations*   ***[EDIT 09.2023]** Hi everyone, i tried to replace my heatbreak for a one that can handle more temperature, like 260°C, with the PTFE tubing that goes not all the way down to the melting zone, so the PTFE is safe from burning or melting : thoses temperatures are very high. Then after my upgrade, i tried to print PLA and it was a nightmare (heatcreep phenomenon)* With all i'vd read on the internet, I decided to : - Give more room to air to flow through the radiator - Apply thermal paste/grease directly arround the heatbreak to conduct the heat . I'm proud to present you the version 5.1 with extra air flow :) To test if the thing was ok to use with PLA i tried to use a thermocouple that was laying arround, i placed the thermocouple in front of radiator, then read a value of 30°C so thats OK for a filament to not start to melt where it souldn't . i'ill try to place the thermocouple behind the radiator but i think the value i read will be the same . => Did this after replacing stock cr10 fan with a 12V Noctua 40x10 with silicone sock on the heatblock, put the temp at 260°C then read value of 43°C max on idle position , ive read 35°C max using PLA (nozzle @210°C) wich is also okay to use allmetal heatbreack (or throat) with stock E3 . I tried to print something with many retraction and it went perfectly fine, next upgrade is to replace loudy 24V stock fans with notcua 12v 40x10 Fan . --------------------- *[EDIT 05.2023] As it is a personal challenge, can you do me a feedback of the problems you have encountered with the model ?* The challenge --------------------- I was looking for a radial fan-duct, for the ender 3 as my side radial fan was worn out : I do not wanted to buy a new fan from internet but instead use some fans I can found at dump or at work ( I work in IT so i can get some 40mm fans anytime, from dead computers or dead network switches)   The hard way --------------------- I also own a TEVO Tarantula and the first thing I printed in early 2017 was this very *famously* **fantastico** LPA Fanduct. I saw there was no types of things existing that can fit onto the Ender3 carriage so I designed one by myself using Fusion 360 . My result was inspired by the mini satsana thing and the LPA 5.5 Stock hotends by Elzariant . I used the Fusion 360 Ender3 f3d file that they have on their GitHub page [here](https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3/blob/master/Ender-3%20Mechanical/F360/Ender%203.f3d) The result ==================== As always, I've learnt once again many many many tweaks and things from F360 on my 3 weeks design's warmup (+parametric design) . I was constantly opening the ender3.f3d and restarted from scratch, because i was not in the right spot each time I printed the tests things . I modeled up to 4 versions (the concepts in green and the developpements after) before the V5, and this V5 is finally usable :D - I added a small groove on the left side of the Satsana to have a little more space to turn the Allen key correctly, as I do not have an Allen key with the rounded head . - Also i've added an extra space to the metal plate carriage so the Fan ring can fit perfectly under and let the air flow through this. - Also the roller wont touch the 3D printed model there is 0.3 MM tolerance gap on the design. i can do a little bot more but not planned at the moment. - I did not proceeded to the air flow simulation because i felt the air going on the nozzle and the print result was OK