Ender 3 Microswiss Direct Drive CURA Profile + Dual Nozzle setup

prusaprinters

This is a mostly complete project where I am going to use the Microswiss Direct Drive plate and slap a second nozzle onto it. I will be updating it as I learn more about it. Also uploaded is a custom setup to load into CURA to enable you to slice for this new printer. For now, consider the cura files untested and use at your own risk. ( To enable them, just unzip the CuraPrinter.zip file into your cura install folder then set up a new printer. It can be found under the 'Custom' section. ) There is a readme that notes various required/recommended purchases, all the offsets, and there is another text file that notes the line items in Marlin to look at. I have also included my config file as an example only (Since its an example, I likely will forget to update it as I increase revisions. Time will tell.) I will be uploading a ZIP file with the various STLs inside of it in order to maintain a neat folder structure of what is compatible with other stuff. This will also be noted in the Readme. Currently, I have only designed 2 fan ducts, both using 5015 blower fans, though I did mock up some 4010 fan mounts, which I have included as step files in the zip archive. My ender 3's configuration files can be viewed here: https://github.com/RFBomb/Marlin/tree/My_Ender3_Marlin_BUGFIX/Marlin Update: 12/11/21 After an extensive argument with GhostKeeper over on the Cura Github, I have decided to update my provided printer profile here. Link to the Cura Bug: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4685332/ Long story short: Cura has a bug that shifts the 0-position of the build plate when a nozzle has a negative offset. Since my this profile has 2 nozzles, with one having a -24mm offset, this means that Cura was shifting X 0 by 24mm. This reduced the overall build area by approx 50mm, while also allowing you to print with nozzle 2 off of the build plate (since it thought the 24mm to the left of the build plate was 0-24.) The workaround is 2 parts: 1 - Insert G28 + G0 X0 + G92 X24 into the start code. Since the bug in cura (that Ghostkeeper refuses to fix) shifts 0 according to the negative offset, Nozzle 1 is at 0 according to printer firmware, but cura spits out gcode that says nozzle 1 is at 24 at its lowest point. This works around this issue. 2 - Extend the build plate according to the negative offset. This allows reaching the entire width with nozzle 1. (Previously, Nozzle 1 would be limited from reaching the far side due to the -24 zero-shift). These workaround have been implemented into the updated printer profile. Today I have also uploaded a new version of the recomended fan duct that I am using with a 5015 fan. I have increased bed clearance by 2.5mm on the lowest portion of the duct to allow greater clearance when passing over bed clips. Previously it had 1mm bed clearance, it now has 3.5mm (for reference, my bed clips measured 2.5mm off the top of the bed) Update: 1/19/21 I have completed Rev2, and am happy to say that it is printing with nozzle #1 nicely for about a week now. I haven't attempted to print with nozzle #2 yet, since I am still printing various other higher priority (for me) items. I have verified that nozzle #2 is within reasonable margin of nozzle #1 though. So I don't anticipate any issues. (Highly recommend using the alignment tool prior to snugging any bolts up to the plate). The Rev 1 duct worked OK and I think looked great, but I found it a pain to remove the shroud assembly to access the hot ends. I think the Rev 2 duct is ugly as sin (I really wanted to has easy view of the heater blocks) but it gets the job done really well, has good airflow, and it doesn't interfere with any of the main shroud's mounting bolts. This means that if you want to access the hotend assembly, just undo the 3 bolts and the entire shroud assembly + ducts + fans + BLTouch comes off easily. Edit: 1/21/21 Uploaded a 3mf file of Benchy. This file is just the models, opening it in cura will not import any settings. It is based off their 'DualPrint' models. The advantage to using it over those models though is that I have already done the alignment of the two models. So you just have to select which extruder is printing which part. Use this guide to help line up your dual-color prints in cura (Merge Feature): https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011738340-How-to-merge-and-group-models-in-Ultimaker-Cura I've also successfully printed with both nozzles. So for the time being, I'm moving onto other projects and am considering this complete enough to take away the 'WIP' tag. Edit 2/19/21: I noticed that PrusaSlicer works much better than Cura when it comes to calculating infill for 'merged' parts (see this link: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/9218 ). I just uploaded a PrusaSlicer config bundle for this setup. Note that I this is now using the following marlin options: FWRETRACT and TOOLCHANGE_FILAMENT_SWAP The config bundle has a large custom start code that heats both nozzles + bed to operating temp, and if a nozzle is using the 'DISABLED' filament (first layer is 0c) then it will perform a wipe on the extruded line left by the active nozzle in order to try and prevent it any crud leftover on the nozzle being there causing issues. Print Settings Printer Brand: Creality Printer: Ender 3 Pro Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.16 Infill: 25% Filament: Polymaker Polyflex PETG Black Category: 3D Printers