Ender 3 Horizontal Spool Holder

thingiverse

Due to limited vertical space, I decided to mount my Ender 3's filament spool horizontally. The design relies on five 608 bearings to maintain smooth rotation and make feeding the filament easier for my Ender 3. This setup is slightly overengineered, but I had extra hardware available. I highly recommend pairing this horizontal filament spool with my Ender 3 Filament Roller Guide Top featuring an angled upper guide for seamless filament feeding. You can find more details at www.thingiverse.com/thing:4279234. Here are the essential components required: * Five 608 bearings * Three M5x20 nuts and bolts For T-Slot mounting: * Two M5 T-Nuts (included with Ender 3) * Two M5x15 bolts Optional Saddle Mounting: * Four M6x45 nuts and bolts * Eight washers are recommended for added support Optional Center Support: * One M6x45 nut and bolt * One washer to secure the center There are multiple versions of this design, each with unique features. Consult the table in the photos to determine which configuration best suits your preferences. One popular variation uses a M6x45 bolt that fits snugly inside Ender 3's top rail V-groove. If you don't have one, there is an alternative printed component available for use. My preferred design incorporates a side skirt between the bearings, primarily for aesthetic purposes. The built-in raft helps prevent warping and ensures easier printing with minimal supports. These components press-fit into the center and can be secured with glue if desired. Another option is the Center Spool Guide, which holds the spool in place at its center. These guides come in various sizes (50mm to 65mm) and can be matched with the ID of your filament spool. You can find a range of sizes on Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4348684. Mounting to Ender 3 can be achieved using M5 T-nuts provided for the stock spool holder bracket, along with slightly longer M5 bolts. I've also designed additional mounting brackets for added security. When printing the main center component, consider orienting it upside down (with the three spokes flat on the bed) to minimize support material waste. Please note that my files feature a 0.2mm gap between parts. If your components don't fit as expected, adjust your slicer settings accordingly. In the photos, you'll notice I used an Acrylic disk for the base bottom instead of 3D printing it. This was simply a matter of having one available and wanting to use it. However, the Base Bottom STL is identical in size and layout to the original design. If you prefer a thinner base, simply scale it using your slicer.