Ender 3/3 Pro PSU 92mm Fan Adapter

thingiverse

this is kind of a remix (i was not able to use original design parts so just designed it from zero using same general shape). NOTE: For the mean while PSU i used the specific model (Ender 3 PRO) For the basic PSU (ender 3) i would pick the Generic model (it hase 4 holes on the mount side) NOTE 2: I inverted the polarity on the jst connector and before changing or unwiring the original fan i made some photos. Mine is an Ender 3 PRO i do not know if the ender 3 PSU is using 12v fans, i was lucky so a buck converter was not required. HARDWARE i used: screw driver (star, with the diameter <= to the diameter of the fan mounting holes) 92 mm fan (with open corners, take a look on the one i linked) NOCTUA redux 92 mm is perfect. i discovered that is no matter wich one to use the 4 pin or the 3 pin version, psu controll it by the voltage. 4-6 standard fan screws Glowes (to prevent shorts could happen that some caps are not discharged) optional hardware i used: 92 fan grid (to cover the outside of the fan) 2-4 more fan screws some electrical tape(better avoid) 2x heat shrink 15mm in case i decide to reuse the original jst connector of the old fan. i learned before: basic understanding of polarity and voltage. wiring/soldering/pinning ability to avoid hurting myself i have done this way: 0. used insulating gloves 1. switched off the printer 2. UNPLUGED the power cable of my printer. 3. with the removed power cable turned on the switch of the power supply (it should in theory discharge all capacitors) UPDATE; no sence doing this since the switch is on the ac side, so the printer itself is acting as unloader...capacitors should be unloaded once the power switch is 0. 4. dismounted the PSU and removed the cover 5. I AVOIDED TOUCHING ANY CAPACITOR PINS 6. i wired cables with respect to the polarity of the psu, (on the ender 3 pro the fan should be 12v BUT i double checked it by watching on the psu fan lable, because putting a 12v fan on 24v power out a fan will destroy it) 8.i figured out how to pass cables from inside to actual fan (i did it simple, just send it trought the under side and zipped it to the PSU frame) 9.I watched some youtube videos to be sure that im doing correctly, its quite simple work but still can be dangerous, mostly because AC cables are in fact accessible even without removing the plastic cover. If u are not a professional, AVOID modding your machine, there is a dangerous of take an electrical shock. Modding 3d printers could provide a ton of problems and failed prints or in extreme burned house. ADVICE. This is not a guide or an invite to disassembling your psu or modding any kind of machine. Do not repeat after me, mine is just an experiment for science curiosity. Do not repeate this at home. Do not disassemble or modify your machine. Files i included in this post are just ornamental objects and serve just as a dimonstration of what a 3d is capable of printing. NOTE: i oriented the fan in way that it SUCK OUT the air from the psu. because i discovered that it will not work properly in different orientation and the psu will overheat. Noctua fan i used (Note the corners of this one, all mounting holes are accessible from all sides): https://www.amazon.it/Rascom-GmbH-NF-B9-1600-NF-B9/dp/B0014I9K30/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=noctua+redux+92&qid=1644145182&sprefix=noctua+redux+%2Caps%2C113&sr=8-2 Buck converter (just for example, i did not used on, but in case of need i will use a different) LM2596 https://www.amazon.it/Hiletgo-LM2596-DC-DC-converter-1-23-V-30-confezione/dp/B008BHAOQO/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=buck+converter+step+down&qid=1644146153&sprefix=buck+conver%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-18 there are silent models, but since i dont care i just pick a basic one. Very Nice Enclosure for the lm2596/lm2596s: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3164882