Ender 2 Y axis MGN12 linear rail mod

thingiverse

EDIT 15.01.2020: - Added a single 0.3 solid layer in the nut and screw pockets for printing without supports. EDIT 25.07.2019: - Revised stock plate screw holes' position to make bed square with X better, addressing an older version's visual but non-real problem affecting print quality. - Added an adjustable Y endstop mount plate. - Revised belt mounting by adding height to the platform so the belt doesn't stay in a triangle. A "flat" version is available for those who prefer to use the belt mounting part from flo13th's remix. EDIT 20.06.2019 - Added mgn-12-aligner.stl - a block that helps align the rail properly on top of the extrusion, essential for keeping X and Y square. Print two of them. Part of the mods I did to my Ender-2. I was never satisfied with the original design on Y due to radial forces towards POM rings of rollers. Even one bearing got off its ring, and in general, I could never get an acceptable level of consistency when leveling the bed. With this mod, once fine adjusted, I'm not leveling anymore - maybe once a month or so, and it's only a slight adjustment that may be needed - day and night compared to before. What you need: - 250mm MGN12 linear rail with MGN12H slider (the bigger one). I had good luck with these or more expensive ones 440C SUS from Robotdigg. - Screws: - 5x M3x8mm for the rail - 4x M3x6 to mount the adjustable Y endstop plate - 4x M3x10 for the belt mounting - Nuts: - For the belt brackets, ensure they're flush with the surface so the original Y plate can lay flat on the adapter. Notes: - You need to re-adjust your Z endstop after this mod, or your nozzle will crash into the bed. - You have two options for the Y endstop: keep using the stock endstop plate or print and use the adjustable plate. If you reuse the stock plate, you need to rise it 1-2mm with washers underneath in order to make it trigger reliably. - flo13th made an excellent remix of the belt brackets which also lowers the belt so it's parallel - check it out. - The heads of the M3 screws that screw into the MGN12H and the nuts for the belt brackets need to go fully into the pockets so they're flush with the surface in order for the original Y plate to be able to lay flat on the adapter entirely. Use a soldering iron to "help" them if necessary. - It's a good idea to add nuts underneath the bed to tighten the stock countersink screws with the alu plate - originally Creality relied on spring tension, which IMO is far from ideal. - Once you're done with this mod, be very careful when removing prints from the bed, or use something removable like a Wham-bam or other magnetic buildplate. The little MGN12h slider can withstand only about 2kg of force applied to it and will likely get destroyed if you apply usual forces while removing stuck prints. - Look at my other E2 mods as well. - Any questions or comments - feel free to ask. Thanks.