Enclosure for new SMD-based geiger counter by impexeris for SBM20 and STS-5 tubes

Enclosure for new SMD-based geiger counter by impexeris for SBM20 and STS-5 tubes

thingiverse

--- update 2020-02-01 I have added a cap for SBM-20M (shorter tubes) adapter M-SBM-20.stl This is a revised enclosure for the new - SMD based hardware version of the DiY geiger counter by my colleague eBay vendor impexeris. Note: this enclosure is originally for SBM-20 Geiger Müller tube. If you have an STS-5 (CTC-5) tube print Top-for-STS-5-geiger-tube.stl Bottom-for-STS-5-geiger-tube.stl files, STS-5 is very similar to SBM-20 but it is 2 mm longer. https://youtu.be/GOD-LSD_Pks This enclosure is for use with SBM-20 or CTC-5 geiger tubes. Besides adjusted geometry for LCD / buzzer / LED, iR receiver power switch and push-buttons new features of the enclosure are: an additional opening for the "click/tone" switch an additional opening for the "tone" button an additional opening for serial header access (this opening is semi closed so if it is needed, it can easily be cut-open) Now the LCD rests on the support pins which direct the display more precisely to its place. The whole device snaps in and is held by springy-clips. The battery is kept in place by springy-clips. Screw holes and columns are introduced to allow bottom cover to be securely held by two ∅2mm diameter/10mm long screws (∅4mm head diameter). Print Settings Printer: Raise 3D Plus Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.25 mm Infill: 20% Notes: Suggested print settings for PLA: 0.4 mm print-head 0.25 mm resolution 20% in-fill ratio 2 shells 50mm/s default printing speed (may depend on your PLA) 50℃ heated bed 215℃ print-head temperature (may depend on your PLA) 100% fan speed 25% Support in-fill ratio printing volume enclosure used no raft and no brim if you have a good adhesion (this way top panel prints smooth and requires no post processing. However, if you are struggling with adhesion - use all counter means possible as this is the prolonged part with sharp straight corners and especially if you have to print on cold bed without Buildtak surface and no printer volume enclosure you will most certainly have a curl at the corners. Post-Printing The switch is from mouser.com : http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/E-Switch/R6ABLKREDAF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtNT9UGfLL4eD%2ffQBVjEjwGqdlbQiyh%252bKc%3d datasheet of the switch : http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/140/R6-346382.pdf There is a hole for the wire to put into the extended part for the tube. When SBM20 tube is installed it presses against the wire and provides the contact. Another contact can be realised either by soldering or wrapping the wire around the contact and securing it with a heat shrink tube.

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