Elegoo Mars Non-Destructive Ventilation and Heating Solution

thingiverse

**WORK IN PROGRESS, USE AT OWN RISK** **SAFETY DISCLAIMER** I assume no responsibility for damages and fires caused by this design. Apply adequate safety precautions and do not let your printer run unattended while the heating is on. **Description** I dislike altering things in a destructive manner to enhance them. My inspiration comes from Asphyth, who created a brilliant design extending the cover to add filtration (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3765610). This modification allows for ventilating and heating the build chamber. I also suggest closing the Z axis gap with this design (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3779881) from RapidMonster. The heating makes printing with some resins easier and yields better results, such as Siraya Tech Blu. This thing includes the Fusion 360 source file. Feel free to experiment and improve the design or use the printer model as a start for your own thing. It would be nice if you let me know what you made from it. **WARNINGS** * This thing has not been thoroughly tested. * Initial tests were very satisfying regarding getting rid of the smell, but could be due to the draw from the ventilator being too small, PLA not being airtight, or needing TPU gaskets between the printer base, extension, and cover. * I only activated the heater manually for 2-3 minutes. The temperature rose sufficiently fast, but the top of the case was quite hot on the outside (45+ C). I am unsure if it is safely usable as is. Maybe the air needs to be ventilated from the inside at the top. **I do not recommend running it unsupervised and without checking the temperature of the case**. * UPDATE: I applied Kapton tape on the inside of the upper corner of the case on three sides (top, back, and right side). This seems to help a little to keep the case from getting hot so fast. I had the heating on for about 7 minutes, and the case reached a maximum of 50C on the outside. * The DHT11 might not be the best choice as a member of the Elegoo Mars Facebook group pointed out. I will investigate further... **How I Use It** * The included hose adapter is designed for a 100mm exhaust hose used in dryers over here. * Use M3 screws and nuts to attach the hose adapter and filter. * I currently use simple paper towels as filters for the intakes. * I have a 3 meter exhaust hose with a fan at the window end (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00MNJDNQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00). It's a 12V, 10.1W, 120x120x38mm, 234.4m³/h, 48dBA Sunon MEC0381V1-A99 fan. * I use this heater (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32960108305.html) from AliExpress but should also be available on Amazon. * I use a Sonoff Basic (https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&SearchText=sonoff+basic) for switching the heater on and off. * I use a DHT11 sensor connected to the Sonoff to measure the build chamber temperature. I might change this because it seems a little unprecise for my needs. * I run the Tasmota firmware (https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota) on the Sonoff. * I will use Node Red (https://nodered.org/) to control the temperature in the build chamber by switching the heater based on the build chamber temperature. * The cable guide is designed for a typical power cable along with a 3-wire dupont cable for sensor. It might not fit for your needs. **How to Print** * The heater holder is a very bad design which nearly kept me from posting it here. * It needs lots of supports, which I wasn't a fan of until I switched from PrusaSlicer aka Slic3r to Cura. Cura has much better supports at least for what I tried. * I did not take care of the part orientation when uploading the STLs. * I printed the cable guide in TPU.