Elegoo Mars Array / NanoDLP Overhaul

thingiverse

**Changelog is below, I will update every change** 12/28/2019: I forgot that feet stick through the base. I modeled up some new feet. It was pretty fun actually. Stick 4x M5 25mm studs into the feet holes, secure against the underside with an M5 nut, drop an M5 nut into the feet, twist on/level the printer. If you don't care about leveling, fixed length feet are available. Please let me know what boards you would like to see supported. I will analyze space constraints and try to make it work. I was heavily inspired by fcollingwood's D7 overhaul. I don't know how to work with meshes, so I had to build this from scratch. Both enclosure sides and the MP1584 holder require bed+object supports. Recommended print orientations are shown The MP1584 mount should be printed in PETG since the 'wings' need to flex. Parts are slightly oversized to accommodate different tolerance printers. V1 will employ heat-set threaded inserts in M3 flavor. I suggest getting an assortment of cheapies from Amazon or similar. This basically reuses the..... frame and screen of the printer. Initial release is for the following hardware: - 24V 28-LED array with driver and optics. This is marketed as an EPAX X1 upgrade, 28-LED array with driver and optics. - Raspberry Pi The parts are split as follows: - Front_enclosure.stl holds the nextion display, intake fan, and is otherwise cosmetic. Type will be threaded insert only. - Array_spacer.stl sits around the bottom exhaust fan (DO NOT MAKE IT INTAKE IF YOU WANT YOUR SCREEN TO STAY COOL) and holds the array at the proper height, while preventing angular rotation from M4 screws. An arrow points to the sky. - Back_enclosure.stl which mounts: - Raspberry Pi - Array driver - Duet wifi (or other board specified in filename) - MP1584 (mounted on Duet) - Rear exhaust fan - Rear power entry and power switch. ***IMPORTANT*** Regarding the selection of the Duet: The Duet does not draw power from the USB port when it has its own 12-25V input. If your chosen board (in future revisions for SKR, etc) does draw power from USB then the MP1584 may sag voltage too much under load and cause the pi to reboot. ***Internal Wiring*** To connect everything internally, you will need to strip a USB type A to micro USB at the type A end and solder it to the USB contacts on the bottom of the Pi. The jacket-less cable will then route under the pi and out the side with the HDMI to connect to the microcontroller board. ***External Wiring*** Cut a small notch in the bottom of the rear extension area. Connect USB type A to the Pi from the outside and then route through the notch to the microcontroller before securing the back piece. Assembly: Coming soon